<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Can I use stainless steel snap-on edging to make a curve? Not easily. Use butcher block or switch to aluminum tee molding</title>
	<atom:link href="http://retrorenovation.com/2008/10/15/can-i-use-stainless-steel-snap-on-edging-to-make-a-curve-not-easily-use-butcher-block-or-switch-to-aluminum-tee-molding/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://retrorenovation.com/2008/10/15/can-i-use-stainless-steel-snap-on-edging-to-make-a-curve-not-easily-use-butcher-block-or-switch-to-aluminum-tee-molding/</link>
	<description>Remodeling, decor and home improvement for old homes</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 25 May 2012 04:29:45 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: pam kueber</title>
		<link>http://retrorenovation.com/2008/10/15/can-i-use-stainless-steel-snap-on-edging-to-make-a-curve-not-easily-use-butcher-block-or-switch-to-aluminum-tee-molding/comment-page-1/#comment-119641</link>
		<dc:creator>pam kueber</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Feb 2012 01:36:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://retrorenovation.com/?p=5830#comment-119641</guid>
		<description>Thank you, Teresa. Yes: Eagle Moldings is the same as RetroTrims.com, which advertises on this site. Go, Thor (owner of Eagle Moldings)!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you, Teresa. Yes: Eagle Moldings is the same as RetroTrims.com, which advertises on this site. Go, Thor (owner of Eagle Moldings)!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Teresa</title>
		<link>http://retrorenovation.com/2008/10/15/can-i-use-stainless-steel-snap-on-edging-to-make-a-curve-not-easily-use-butcher-block-or-switch-to-aluminum-tee-molding/comment-page-1/#comment-119634</link>
		<dc:creator>Teresa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 23:29:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://retrorenovation.com/?p=5830#comment-119634</guid>
		<description>I found another supplier for the metal trim other than NY Metals.  Eagle Mouldings in Maple Grove MN also sells the vintage style metal trim, and their shipping is much more reasonable than NY Metals -- however, they don&#039;t have the snap-on style edging.

http://www.eaglemouldingsinc.com/Nostalgic50s.aspx

I&#039;ve really enjoyed looking at the DIY photos featured here.  If anyone knows where I can get step-by-step instructions on the cove molding, including how to attach the back splash to the counter, please let me know.  Although I did find a counter top fabricator willing to install the metal trim - they want $900 for labor.  I&#039;m seriously considering just asking them to deliver the pieces to me so I can assemble myself.

More home work!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I found another supplier for the metal trim other than NY Metals.  Eagle Mouldings in Maple Grove MN also sells the vintage style metal trim, and their shipping is much more reasonable than NY Metals &#8212; however, they don&#8217;t have the snap-on style edging.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.eaglemouldingsinc.com/Nostalgic50s.aspx" rel="nofollow">http://www.eaglemouldingsinc.com/Nostalgic50s.aspx</a></p>
<p>I&#8217;ve really enjoyed looking at the DIY photos featured here.  If anyone knows where I can get step-by-step instructions on the cove molding, including how to attach the back splash to the counter, please let me know.  Although I did find a counter top fabricator willing to install the metal trim &#8211; they want $900 for labor.  I&#8217;m seriously considering just asking them to deliver the pieces to me so I can assemble myself.</p>
<p>More home work!!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Dean</title>
		<link>http://retrorenovation.com/2008/10/15/can-i-use-stainless-steel-snap-on-edging-to-make-a-curve-not-easily-use-butcher-block-or-switch-to-aluminum-tee-molding/comment-page-1/#comment-55456</link>
		<dc:creator>Dean</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 06:22:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://retrorenovation.com/?p=5830#comment-55456</guid>
		<description>I was thinking about how you might fill those gaps unobtrusively, and metallic epoxy putty came to mind.  Since it&#039;s such a slight gap, I&#039;m guessing a toothpick sized piece of dark gray (slightly metallic) kneaded epoxy putty could be placed in the corner before applying the edging material.  Perhaps do it in such a way that it slightly squishes through the void when compressed.  I&#039;m guessing you could then do a little detail work to remove the excess and smooth the area out.  This material would look better than a light colored surface behind the gap, and it would likely function as a seal as well.  

Another thought would be a tiny bit of unsanded epoxy or urethane grout -- again, paying attention to the clean up at the end.  These grouts would not stain as they are not porous, and I think they might function as a seal to the joint as well.

Lastly, lol, they make a material called &quot;stainless steel tool wrap&quot; that is very thin and flexible -- but solid stainless steel.  It&#039;s VERY thin, so you could cut a 1&quot; wide &quot;tape&quot; , crease it to 90&quot; and stick it in the corner (or underneath the desired surface) with some contact cement.  It would provide a true stainless steel &quot;background&quot; for any gaps -- and you could probably even place a tiny bead of the epoxy putty behind it (playing with getting the right amount) so that the foil (it&#039;s as thin as aluminum foil) would protrude a but through the gap when you apply the edging.  

This may be a bit out there, but I have a feeling that one or more of these methods could give nice results.

:)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was thinking about how you might fill those gaps unobtrusively, and metallic epoxy putty came to mind.  Since it&#8217;s such a slight gap, I&#8217;m guessing a toothpick sized piece of dark gray (slightly metallic) kneaded epoxy putty could be placed in the corner before applying the edging material.  Perhaps do it in such a way that it slightly squishes through the void when compressed.  I&#8217;m guessing you could then do a little detail work to remove the excess and smooth the area out.  This material would look better than a light colored surface behind the gap, and it would likely function as a seal as well.  </p>
<p>Another thought would be a tiny bit of unsanded epoxy or urethane grout &#8212; again, paying attention to the clean up at the end.  These grouts would not stain as they are not porous, and I think they might function as a seal to the joint as well.</p>
<p>Lastly, lol, they make a material called &#8220;stainless steel tool wrap&#8221; that is very thin and flexible &#8212; but solid stainless steel.  It&#8217;s VERY thin, so you could cut a 1&#8243; wide &#8220;tape&#8221; , crease it to 90&#8243; and stick it in the corner (or underneath the desired surface) with some contact cement.  It would provide a true stainless steel &#8220;background&#8221; for any gaps &#8212; and you could probably even place a tiny bead of the epoxy putty behind it (playing with getting the right amount) so that the foil (it&#8217;s as thin as aluminum foil) would protrude a but through the gap when you apply the edging.  </p>
<p>This may be a bit out there, but I have a feeling that one or more of these methods could give nice results.</p>
<p> <img src='http://retrorenovatio.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

