1959 American Standard ‘integral countertop’ sink – for sale
I nabbed this sink yesterday – the rare, famous and oh so beautiful American Standard 1959 model. I now have it for sale in my shop…
This one is in beautiful shape – one teensy flake on the top against-wall edge barely visible. You can get legs and faucet over at deabath.com. Label still on the back.
This is probably my favorite sink of all time. It’s 36″ wide and 18″ deep, with the great ‘countertop’ with 9″ average space on both sides. Yet, the sink actually has a diminutive stance overall.
$350. If you’re truly interested – email me to figure out the shipping. If you’re in New York, Boston or NJ – it’s a great little road trip!
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- The sink in green on it’s vanity…I think the vanity would be easy to recreate, actually
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- 1959 American Standard sink
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- 1959 American Standard sink – ‘countertop’ space on each side averages 9″
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- 1959 label
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Comments
12
wow, what a great bathroom sink. I just bought a 1959 Ranch in Florence and the tub has the same indentations along the front!! Unfortunately the previous owners tryed to remodel the bathroom with present day fixtures and took out the sink!!Luckily they left the original tub. I can’t afford this one but at least I know what to look for. Thanks for the post.
John
I have this sink in my bathroom! I am shocked I found any data about this sink!!!
The faucet is leaking on the installed unit and getting worse by the day. My plumber told me that despite replacing the washer it will leak because the washer “seat” is nicked. This sink is the wonderful centerpiece of a vintage 1950’s 1/2 bath in my home that my wife and I love. THANK THANK YOU for the tip to look at deabath.com for the faucet…I will inquire there. I would hate to have to replace this sink because I could not find and replacement faucet.
You’re welcome, Steve. And good luck. Tell deabath we sent you…and let us know how it turns out.
I may be all wet here, but it seems to me I have seen a tool for smoothing and renewing a tapered faucet seat. Pretty sure it belonged to a fellow I knew who wa a millwright, but you might find one in a commercial plumbing-supply house or online from Grainger Industrial.
If the nick in the seat is slight, said too might do the trick. Otherwise you might be able to do some creative repairs with marine epoxy thickened with metallic powder.
Here are some basic thoughts:
The surface to be bonded must be clean, shiny, abraded and well-cleaned with acetone and solvent alcohol. Use the model-making skills to only abrade in the nick as best you can.
The metallic powder must be a yellow metal if bonding to a yellow metal, and a white metal if bonding to white metal.
Small quantities of aluminum powder and copper powder can be obtained at a commercial autobody supply house as they are the “silver” and “gold” metallic elements for custom painting.
Epoxy will not stick to areas with wax on them, so you can prevent undesired adhesion by carefully applying two coats of paste wax to areas you’d like to protect with a q-tip or whatever, allowing the wax to dry between.
If you want to plug an orifice to prevent obtruction with your repair paste, use modeling clay.
It is better to have to abrade again and reappy than to have to try and work down huge wads of the material once dry…apply sparingly but try to avoid leaving small air bubbles. Small airvoids may be filled with small amounts of clear epoxy.
Devcon-brand “5-minute epoxy” and “10-minute epoxy” are pretty durable, but a marine epoxy product woud be the most durable.
Of course, you could always just use “J-B Weld”. Not sure how well it would last over time.
If anyone wonders, I have background in restorative remodel, stone/tile work and motorsports fabrication. Also spent 7 years in the design, manufacturing and repair of stringed instruments.
For the last 10 years or so I have worked as a professional shipwright, boatbuilder, and tool (mold) maker.
I have used the technique described above to repair large-sized valve bodies on commercial fishing vessels (severe service) in Alaska where time was of the essence and replacement parts far away. The repairs were lasting and successful.
One caution–city water pressure typically runs about 80 PSI. NEVER, EVER try to repair a fractured or cracked valve body of any kind that will be subjected to pressure by (essentially) gluing it. If it is a rare fixture it may be worth the cost ( if repairable ) of resoration by brazing, pinning, silver-soldering, etc…but never trust an adhesive bond. Please do not ask how I know this…
The other half of ‘AtomicBowler’, should she ever pop her head up, is my partner Laura. Laura currently works in the marketing field but in the past had a succesful interior-design business. We both love all things retro and have quite a collection of small appliances, dishes, kitchen implements, salt-pepper shakers, etc.
We have a small line of MC-inspired lighting products which we hope to begin producing soon, and are looking for the right deal on the right Atomic House.
We are both avid bowlers and are in love with our vintage, old-school balls and vintage shoes, hence the name. Both of us have enjoyed this site and forum for some time and I just recently saw something posted to which I felt I could contribute.
Thanks for the great site and forum!
David Whyte
Laura Stangland
Atomic Bowlers – What a great stash of information. You rock! Thank you!
To Atomic Bowlers…THANKS for the technical tips. I doubt I will ever use them myself….I wish I was a craftsman like you but I am a technologist and pretty much useless when it come to this level mechanical handiwork. I will retain your tips for somebody I may hire to do this. I saw on the deabath.com site that they can rebuild the existing fixture if necessary…it looks expensive but I really like this sink.
Thanks again Pam, Dave and Laura
-Steve Z.
i would like to purchase the sink 1959 for sale if it is pink. It does not say. please respond. Linda Gallo
I was hunting for this sink in pink for 6 years. Finally I found one on line for $46.00 and in perfect condition. Can you believe it?
Wow, Linda, 6 years. That’s tenacity – way to go. Sounds fabulous. Send me pics – retrorenovation at gmail dot com – if you like. I have a white one that I need to get installed in my bathroom this year… sigh.
I have a late 1940’s blue American standard sink for sale…with all original hardware…what is the best way to sell it?
Maria, this is my key “how to sell” post: http://retrorenovation.com/2009/04/09/how-and-where-to-sell-your-vintage-metal-kitchen-cabinets/
Please – no buying or selling on the main blog. But you can list things on the forum: http://retrorenovation.com/forum
I LOVE this sink and just bought what I thought to be identical on CL for $25. Unfortunately, I think the color is a bit more “peachy” than pink but for $25.00……
Which leads me to ask. Is there a source for American Standard colors? My sink was described as “soft pink” which really wasn’t wrong, it just doesn’t truly match the “soft pink tub and toilet in my bath. Any suggestions?