I’m following up on yesterday’s story about Dave and Kris’ lovely mid-century modern living room with this post that specifically applauds their window treatments. These are beautifully executed and give me the jumping-off to spotlight six tips for this style of window treatments for a mid century modern interior:
Pinch pleat curtain tips:
- Pinch-pleat draperies: Rock the Casbah. I am the world’s #1 fan of pinch pleats. They are tidy, yet warm and welcoming. They are harder to find than panels … because they are harder to make, but not THAT much harder… as you will recall, Gavin and I even got in a hissy fit one time over whether they require more fabric than panels. I think the determining factor is how full you make either. Where to get pinch pleat draperies? I tend to favor finding someone local who can make them to fit your windows perfectly. This is what Cindy did, for example. Other sources: For off-the-shelf, readers seem to like J.C. Penney’s Supreme line, including their prices; there are othe pinch pleat options on the JCP site, use the Search box. Vintage — you may be able to find pinch pleats vintage, too, and these can also be adapted (made smaller) or pieced together to make wider widths.
- Stack back: This is a term you must conquer if you are to use pinch pleats. Basically, it means: You need to think about how much space the pinch pleats will take up when they are open… and plan this into your calculations for how wide to buy your pinch pleats. For example, Dave and Kris’ drapes look to have about a 12″ stackback (on each side). If they have a 40″ window… with 4″ trim on each side… a 4″ overlap at center… and 4″ returns (the fabric needed to wrap the traverse rod 90-degrees to hug the wall) they would order a pair of panels that span approximately 76″ combined. When closed, this would allow enough fabric to cover the entire window (from return to the center, overlapped)… and when the drapes are open, the stackback would begin at the edge of the glass (covering the trim.) I hope to heck I got this right, and I am sure that if not, Gavin will correct me. There are places like Smith & Noble that have calculators — seek them out. Really, it’s not that hard. If you are having someone make the drapes — give them super careful measurements of your window and they will do the calculation.
- Sheer panels underneath: I love how Dave and Kris have put sheer panels underneath the pinch pleat. This makes the room all glowy — let’s in the light, but maintain privacy, if that’s required. However, if you like to open the windows wide during the day, the sheer are going to be a pain. Alternatively, you can opt for sheers on pinch pleats — that is, two layers of pinch pleats. The downside to this, is that your draperies are going to extend farther into the room. Sheer panels can be tucked right behind the single traverse rod holding your solid pinch pleats; you’re gonna have a 4″ or so protrusion into the room. If you have two traverse rods, one stacked on the other, I think you’re talking 6″ miniminum protrusion, because their needs to be enough space for the bottom set of sheers to open and close. I was in England this summer and in the humongous drapery section of John Lewis, I noted that the brits seem to use kind of “pin-tucked” (I think that’s the word) sheers on traverse rods, under their pinch pleats. The pin-tuck design is flatter — so I think the protrusion is minimized. Sorry, I am sure that this is really hard to understand.
- Position of top of draperies: Note how D&K’s draperies start at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. But look at the light — the window starts much lower. They have installed the draperies floor-to-ceiling to fool your eye into believing the windows are larger and also, to accentuate the height of the wall. With the sheers in place, in particular, this works magnificently. Lesson: First consider whether you can take the drapes all the way to the ceiling — especially if the window is already vertical (rather than horizontal) in its orientation; no need to think that your drapes “must” start right above the window — which would, in this case, have broken up the lovely overall lines of the room.
- Position of bottom of draperies: For mid-century interiors, I am also a fan of draperies that just barely brush the ground. Tidy. Linear. Also, easier to open and close, and to keep clean.
- Traverse rod: Paint it! You can also paint your traverse rod to blend in with the wall color or in this case, the color of the sheers behind it. I just laid out my traverse rod to the correct (installed width) and put two thin layers of spray paint on it. My traverse’s sit on top of ivory colored grasscloth, and spray painted almond, are barely noticeable.
Note: You can also layer pinch pleat draperies over aluminum horizontal blinds. We even have advice on whether and when to turn the blinds up — or down!
Embrace your inner Traverse Rod!
Do you have a fear of pinch pleat drapes… of traverse rods… of making homemade pie crusts? YOU CAN DO IT, and you will be a better person for the effort!
And remember, all my stories about window treatments for mid century homes are located in the Category: Retro Accents / Window Treatments.
Daves
Ann V says
I recently made myself pinch pleat draperies for my living room. The finished width was over 13 feet wide, so it was quite a production. They’re silk dupioni with a poly/cotton drapery lining. I used Wrights Pleat Tape (http://www.wrights.com/wrights/products/featureproducts/pinchpleattape/pinchpleattape.htm) to create the pleats. The pleat tape is designed for a 2.5 to 1 fullness, which ended up seeming a little full for a mid century look. Part of the fullness may also be due to the fabric. I might try to find a steamer and see if that helps, too. But I’m pretty happy with them overall, I think they fit in my 1966 ranch and they’re much better than not having any window treatments at all!
Photo:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1195.snc4/154732_10100378812304040_13963014_66767201_868413_n.jpg
Brini says
Hi Pam! Great information as usual. Let’s not forget cornices. They’re easy to make (a wood box, upholstered in batting and fabric) and look very mid-century, and they hide the business end of window treatments beautifully. I’m planning on implementing them in my remodel.
pam kueber says
yes, Brini, you are right! I’ll have to do a post on this. I have several cornices that I’ve purchased at estate sales, and can show them.
Trouble aka Shane says
I had sheers in my home at first, but they were ugly. Since my home is early ’50s, I have built a cornice over the front window, and have vintage pinch pleats, and it looks very period correct.
The drapes stay closed for now, since I have no sheers up, but will be ordering original-style aluminum Venetians next month (oh boy oh boy! I’ve waited 8 months!). Gavin and I already talked about the sharpness and cleaning of these things.
Trouble aka Shane says
Also I grew up with pinch pleats everywhere I went. They look more expensive and “grown up” IDK for a lack of a better word. Anything else looks bland to me, like college students using tab tops from WalMart in their apartment.
Gavin Hastings says
Good Job!
Larry says
I have a set of vintage, lined, barkcloth pinch pleats from probably the 50s that a friend of mine purchased at auction and gave to me. They must have spanned an enormous window of some sort because when help up, the panels are just huge! I’ve had them in storage for several years until I purchase a home (wich should be closing next week!) and I’m hoping they aern’t dry rotted. They were discolored and sort of yellowed, perhaps they were in a smoker’s home. Can these soak in a tub of woolight then hung to dry or will it destroy them? I don’t dare put them in a washing machine.
Wendy M says
I would caution you if they have a thermal backing…make sure the backing doesn’t stick together while it is drying. I had this happen on a vintage set and it stuck together like glue. I had to pull them apart, which left large areas that were no longer opaque. Blackout liner was the solution to salvage them, but close look revealed how flawed they were.
Good luck- I hope you can use them!
Larry says
Thanks Wendy – fortunately mine are lined with what appears to be a simple cotton fabric or possibly cotton mix but not thermal. I will definitely keep the thermal information in mind if I have to go with another set.
Gavin Hastings says
Larry- if these were mine, I would carefully take them apart…meaning remove the lining, the buckram, dismantle the pinch pleats so that ley lie flat. I would not separate any seams in the face fabric that created the width of the panel.
I would then take the drapery material to a professional cleaner. This would give you new, fresh fabric to use and tailor to to the sizes you need.
If you send them to the cleaners as is, the cost for cleaning and re-training these panels as “draperies” would be quite pricey.
Take one panel to the cleaners (as-is) and see what they think about the stability of the fabric prior to doing anything. Good luck.
Jeanne says
I bought some vintage lined pinch pleats off of ebay and had them dry cleaned. The cleaners charged per pleat. They came back really nice. I can’t remember what the charge per pleat was, but it was worth it to me. They were nicely folded with paper strips holding the folds, which I left on for a day after I hung them on the rods.
For Larry to take them apart and have them re-made to fit his new home is a good idea, though. If they are large, there will be plenty of fabric to work with.
75Heather says
Oh, yikes! Completely dismantling the curtains? Oy vey. Not what I wanted to hear. 😛 I actually spent *more* on getting the curtaines tailored to fit my windows than I spent on the curtains themselves (which were expensive enough as it was). The curtains were originally two huge panels of pinch-pleated atomic goodness, but I had to have them each split in half to accomodate the three windows in the living room – one huge window and two smaller windows.
I’ve checked with a couple of cleaners in town to see what it would cost, but none of the ones I checked with do drapes anymore and it sounds like the ones who do would be prohibitively expensive. Crap. It took me a couple of years to finally find something that my husband and I both agreed on (no small task, let me tell ya), that would accomodate about 14′ of window span and fit within our budget. I might just have to take my chances soaking them in OxiClean and then hang them up to dry. Or just hang them as is. My living room is pretty dark. It just might work. 😉
pam kueber says
try vacuuming them also — with the proper attachment.
75Heather says
I’m interested to see the replies to this because I was actually going to ask the exact same thing – vintage barkcloth curtains, simple cotton lining (which is perilously close to falling apart, so I might have to re-line them with another fabric), and wondering how best to clean the yellowed areas without ruining the curtains, which I’ve spent a pretty penny on.
Larry says
Heather, I was very lucky to have gotten mine for free. Once I get moved into the house I’ll have to take a closer look and see how stable the fabric is. Thanks for the suggestion Gavin, I guess the cheapskate in me was hoping I could just do a gentle soak/rinse with woolite in the bathtub, a nice gentle air dry on the line outside and then would just have to cut to correct widths and finish up the cut side, but alas, is it ever that easy?
Gavin Hastings says
I am a firm believer in finding other people (the cleaners) to blame my own mistakes on!
You could “maybe” get away with it….but I think they would be better made up freshly. Stiffer headings, etc.
BTW- I once saw lined draperies left as found with the width reworked by basting the area of the new side hem and using a blind stitch up the side-folding in the cut lining and face fabric. I did look pretty good. They cut at the point of the next pleat over to provide a return.
I might be getting a little technical here….but will explain it all when I see you, too, Monday at 9. Be prompt! : )
pam kueber says
congratulations on the new/old house, Larry.
Larry says
Thanks Pam, it’s a 1945 modest little house but I’m sure not much is original from 1945. I know the kitchen isn’t, it’s probably from the 60s, but i do think the original cabinets were brought down to the washroom in the basement, plainish plywood but original handles…I think. I remember the first post I ever put on here was that I was lamenting that I had to wait to be able to buy one and you told me to be patient and that the decorationg Gods would bring me a house…you were right!
troysf says
Ah, the drapery dilemna: anyone know how to hang pinch pleats from the ceiling?
pam kueber says
troysf, they do it in hotels all the time — i assume there is hardware OR, as i maybe think, there is accommodation on the traverse rod to screw it to the ceiling rather than the wall. i am travelling right now — at the alt blogging conference in salt lake city, or i would go look at mine. in any case: the trick is in the traverse rod, just be sure to get the right kind…hey, i’ll also add this to my list, do research, and a post
Gavin Hastings says
That’s right…. make sure to use anchors in the ceiling!
There are also tracks available just like the curtains used in hospitals for curtain panels.
Some types of traverse rods have attachment clips to add a secondary non-pulley-ed rod behind the frontpiece. These can be used for pocketed sheers or pleated, so long as they stay stationary.
Martha says
I have lovely pinch pleats in my bedroom (floor to celining and light blocking fabric) and can’t imagine anything else. I had them made to measure because I could not find the height I needed. However, Penney’s does have a good selection of sizes and colors. Everyone always comments on how classy the pinch pleats look and they are just so MCM!
Jenny says
I have lovely gold pinch pleats in my living room but I am afraid of making homemade pie crust. It’s intimidating.
Gavin Hastings says
Go for it Jenny!
If everyone here stops by my house next Monday at 9a.m., I swear you will all leave at 2p.m. with a perfect pair under your arms! No matter your ability…it is all straight lines.
Find directions in an old Singer book….and try making one panel from an old sheet, with a piece of drapery lining…and the top heading (1 1/2 yds) of something called buckram. Total cost for this test panel: Maybe 10 bucks. Once you understand the steps…the finished draperies will be easy. Honest. You can begin in the morning, and by the time your favorite tv program comes on that night, you can sit on the sofa-folding and handsewing your pleats.
pam kueber says
haha, you’re exaggerating a bit. if you use patterned fabric, you must also take care to match the seams, and the spot where two panels meet up. ordering the right amount of fabric also can be a pain… but it’s just math. i have an old consoweld instruction booklet somewhere. if/when i find it, i will scan it for intrepid sewers….
Gavin Hastings says
Why, why, why didn’t God make you my sister?????
The pattern on the fabric is like a wallpaper. After making the initial horizontal pattern cut, all additional cuts begin at the same point.
I expect you here Monday at 9 a.m. : )
Jenny says
If I were going to be even remotely close to you on Monday at 9 a.m., I would be there with bells on for your tutorial. Plus, I LOVE your house.
pam kueber says
amy, you can do it, and you will never ever go back to boxed after. my favorite recipe for homemade pie crust is in maida heater’s (vintage) chocolate desserts book. he recipe, err instrmuctions, are 6 pages long! not to intimidate you… but what’s good about these instructions is that they provide detail for every itty bitty step so in a way it is NOT intimidating. oh, and the chocolate desserts — to die for!
Jenny says
I just ordered the book from my library and will give it a whirl! Thanks for the reference.
Mariah says
Pam, Thank you for posting more pics of this beautiful home! Just wanted to weigh in on J.C. Penney’s pinch pleats. I have the Jewel Tex pinch pleat line (on sale online right now too!) They come in six colors, I have the ‘green clay’ color, a pale grass green. The fabric has a really pleasing grasscloth texture and appearance and drapes beautifully.
Over a year ago on here someone recommended the Macy’s Coronado sofa line, it looks very similar in style to Dan and Kris’ lovely living room set from Younger. Based on seeing the Macy’s sofa here at retro renovation, I bought it last year and absolutely love it. It has gorgeous MCM lines and the fabric and stuffing has held up very well to daily use. Macy’s has at least twice annual furniture sales..
Cindy says
I was window treatment-less for six years before deciding on pinch pleats and have never regretted my decision. I heeded your advice to paint the rod so the eye can focus on the draperies and not the white of the traverse rod.
Dave & Kris’ draperies are beautiful and fall so gracefully! Love these…..
Amy Hill says
Funny you post this story today…Last summer, I found a really nice set of vintage thermal pinchpleats that are hanging in my living room, blocking any drafts not held out by the storm windows. It’s a pretty “heavy” look, and although I prefer the lighter look of sheer panels, these are much more practical for the kind of winter we’re having this year.
Penney’s has a good selection, too, but you can’t beat the price I paid for this set at the thrift store, $10.80 + tax, and it goes to helping the Goodwill’s mission of helping people.
Gavin Hastings says
Amy- thermal backings and “black-out” linings will always add more bulk to the way draperies hang. : (
Amy Hill says
They are relly “clunky”, like a pair of platform shoes, but they really help with keeping the room warm.