How is this one, Retro Renovation readers? I recently scored a full box of est. 1960-65 era GE Textolite laminate samples, absolute mint condition unused. This is the first bunch — the others aren’t so over-the-top FABULOUS, but still are great gauges of what to look for. OMG. What else do I need to say. We can all eat our hearts out, together, on this one. This post originally ran on Jan. 4, 2008

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A reader wrote to ask how to bring the luster back to her vintage laminate countertops. Paste wax, maybe? To get the answer, I turned to expert Grace Jeffers. She is the writer, design historian and materials expert responsible for restoration of the Ralph Sr. and Sunny Wilson House – including its gorgeous Mondrian-style kitchen, above. Grace wrote back pronto:

Douse them with COUNTERTOP MAGIC.  DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT USE WAX. Plastics do not like wax, they like oil. In the Wilson house I used almonst an entire can of countertop magic for each 4 x 8 panel. Let it soak overnight and then polish with a clean cloth in the a.m.

Grace Jeffers

Thanks, Grace! And reader – oopsy, I lost your email, thanks for your question!

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I just got off the phone with George from New York Metals – purveyors of the stainless steel edging to true to 40s 50s and 60s kitchen countertops.

The recent question on the table has been: How to bend my preferred “Snap-On Molding” (in photo above) for rounded edges – be they quarter-round cubbies or 180-degree/half-circle peninsula or snack bars. The news is ‘bad’ – but with solutions – George says:

• In the 50s and 60s, all countertop installers had special machinery to make these rounded bends with this edging. So it is, or was, do-able. But, he is very skeptical that any of this machinery is around today. You can try metal shops in your town to see if they have the equipment – but it’s unlikely, he thinks. If you do find someone who can do it, let us know!
• If you have already purchased this edging – need to complete your project – and want to make a rounded peninsula, I suggest: Butcherblock, as above. You will have to keep it sealed, but there are precedents, and I personally think that mixing and matching countertop surfaces is even more effective than just using the same material throughout.
• If you have NOT already purchased your edging, George says rounded countertops CAN be accomplished today with the aluminum TEE moldings that New York Metals sell. Images are in the gallery below. BUT, you must use countertop installers – unless you truly have the DIY equipment and skilles – because the edges of the countertop need to be routed to take the tee-insert. The trick to getting a good round edge is to clip the tee…miter it…clip it like you would clip the selvage in sewing where you make a curve…which will allow the metal must bend.
• Can you mix and match the aluminum and the stainless steel? George says it’s all in the eye of the beholder…but if you have a discriminating eye, the finishes are slightly different. I would advise: Choose one or the other.
• My #1 preference remains: The stainless steel snap-on. I believe this was most common. The snap-on edge comes in a 1-5/8″ width – a profile I prefer to the max. 1-1/4″ for the aluminum. And, the snap-on edge comes right up over your countertop – whereas the aluminum edge ‘marries’ with it at the common edge. But all this said – either set of choices are good, an authentic. More than anything, this is an aesthetic preference.

My apologies to readers who may have purchased the snap-on molding with the goal to make a rounded edge — I think there may be two of you out there! — I hope the alternative of butcher block is appealing to you.  As I’ve mentioned before – I am not an expert, rather an obsessed amateur – and I am learning as I go, too.

For more info on countertops: See my new Laminates and Countertop Edgings Page including:

Stainless steel / metal countertop edging: The #1 choice for sure!

• Stainless steel edging for your laminate countertop!
• Installing the stainless steel countertop edging
  

Important countertop design tips:

• Mixing materials- like laminate, butcher block and stainless steel to achieve mid-mod variety
• Installing corner shelves including in glass or w

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Several readers have asked me how to install the stainless steel countertop edging from New York Metals. In this post, I’ll take you step-by-step through the process that we used to install the metal edging in my kitchen.

I had my countertops laminated by an outfit recommended by by contractor. They made all the countertops and backsplashes separately, ahead of time, and then, when they came to install them in my kitchen, they put everything together.

To review…The edging is comprised of three different pieces.

This is the little cove molding piece you use to mask where the countertop attaches to the backsplash. The part that “shows” is the 5/16″ part. You shove the 15/16″ part back down behind the main countertop:

This next piece, the 1-5/8″ snap-on molding, goes along the edge of the main countertop.

The question I have been receiving is, how to you handle the corners.

Answers: On the OUTSIDE corners, you snip the the metal lip that sit on top of the countertop and along the underside and miter it; the fat 1.5″ part of the metal bends easily to make the turn:

On INSIDE corners, you cut the whole piece, also making miters on the lip that sit on the counter and underside.

Now, somewhere in my stash I saw 50s DIY instructions on how to then weld… spotweld?… sauter? the mitered edges for a clean finish.  Who knows which word? Lord knows which of 400 magazines this little article in. But I’ll keep an eye out. In any case, we did NOT weld anything and honestly, it’s fine. It kind of looks worse in the photo above than it is in real life. The miters are just real tight. Hey, if anyone is out on retro recon, with a camera and sees welded corners – grab the shot and send it in.

Finally – the 1″ backsplash…corners, miters…are handled the same way. In spots where the backsplash edges are visible vertically as in the photo below – back by the wallpaper – we made the bend then just secured them with a bead of glue. No screws were used.

Contractor Kevin, along with the countertop guys, were quite trepidatious about the whole thing coming in. This was the first time any of them had done this, their dads had done it 50 years ago! It really was a breeze, though. And as with the rest of my darling beloved kitchen – all the naysayers who thought I was nutso – were totally won over in the end and LOVED IT!

Above – Reader Amy asked you to “end” the countertop against a well. Here’s Option #1 – you run the backsplash all the way around.

Above – Option #1 e.g., where the countertop ends against a fridge, we wrapped the countertop in 1-5/8″ molding there – no backsplash.

Hope this all makes sense. This techy stuff is not my forte.

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High-res scan - click to enlarge

Okay, this is the last day of my little fixation with retro laminates. (For now.) As you know, I am a devotee of the Sherwin Williams Suburban Modern palette, both interior and exterior.  So, I have gone through Arpa’s line of solid-colored laminates and for the most part, been able to line up 10 colors that are pretty darn good matches to the 10 SW mid mod interior colors.

Virtually all of these colors were used on postwar kitchen cabinets by about 1955, lilac and rose red/pink flamingo a little later.

A few notes:

• The Rose Red appears to be a really great match for the S-W Pink Flamingo. On my monitor, though, the color does not show up true. The kitchen below is a better capture of the true colors. And click on the kitchen for that complete, Rose Red post.
• I really could find no good Arpa match for SW Pearl Gray. The Arpa alabaster is much lighter, but tonally in the right direction.

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Following up on Monday’s exciting post about the Arpa USA palette of solid-color laminates, let’s take a look at how to use this material to recreate this 1959 Ma Bell kitchen. It would be oh-so-easy! Elements include:

• Laminate cabinetry using Arpa’s “Jardin” colorway.
• Cabinet pulls: Rejuvenation’s new midcentury “sharp arch”, in satin chrome
• Countertops are also laminate – I like Arpa’s “Off White” but there are 4 whites that could work – Off White, Snowbound, Dover White and Downy — that you can eyeball in your kitchen – and test adjacent to your appliances.
• On the floor, I’d put Armstrong’s faux-brick vinyl sheet, Saguaro in birch white
• And if you can scrounge them up — this kitchen also deserves a pink stovetop, built-in ovens, and even fridge…Reader Ron might be able to find you some
• If you can’t find pink or don’t want vintage -  the Sub-Zero with appliance white panels and the old-style vent at the top, makes for a mighty fine authentic mid mod look. Pair it with a vintage range.
• For a sink – stainless steel from Elkay, they have lots of great designs straight from the era.

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I have been working on retro laminates lately – and originally thought there were only these big five: Wilsonart, Formica, Pionite, Nevamar and Arborite. But – I’ve now discovered a 6th company – Arpa USA. They have a terrific-looking portfolio — of solids, in particular. Some of the greens come darn close to that famous 50s pistachio… there are some pinks that are pretty good… ditto, blues. And, if you’re looking for that 60s Brady Bunch orange – Fiesta, baby, you’ve got it!

I emailed Arpa and asked if they could send me their ring of solids…and they did! Very exciting as this is the first product that I’ve ever asked for as a blogger – and received. I have several more posts planned on some of these colors and how to use them for retro kitchen and retro bathroom renovations. Thank you, Arpa USA!

Website: Arpausa.com

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My local Re-Store was offering some maple flooring from bowling alley – and some handy homeowner re-purposed it into the most excellent countertop. Isn’t it great?!

…Right up there with the Teacups Chandelier we looked at a while ago.

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More today from the Wilsonart laminate history archives. In the 60s, laminate colors got, at one end of the spectrum richer and earthier – and at the other end, pop-art bold.  Some of the defining trends from the period, this article says:

• Color TV was introduced in 1965, bringing us closer in touch with design inspiration from other cultures.
• The Mediterranean look – more specifically, Spanish Colonial — gave us both colors and textures like faux leather. “Corinthian leather!”
• The op-art, pop-art world was a-flutter. Hence, the iconic oranges, yellows and lime greens of the period.
• We loved faux everything. The future is Plastics.
• Oh yeah: Squint and you can see avocado green and harvest gold… two colors that stayed with us well into the 70s.

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As follow up to my post yesterday – with a round up of all the laminates for bathroom counters that are on my radar today – I also recently found this great little history of laminate in the 1950s, from Wilsonart. Click through to read the complete story, but here are a few highlights:

• Laminate was so popular in the 50s, that a chrome-and-metal dinette cost four-times more than a wood dinette.
• Plastic laminate was desirable for its impermeability – easy to clean up.
• Another reason for the bright, exuberant colors of the 50s: Colors were rationed in the 40s during the war, when the color du jour was battleship gray.
• Speckled laminate — also known as lame’ — was made with real glitter, which was invented in the 30s.
• Marble and wood-grain were popular – with many choices still available today.

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