by pam kueber on September 8, 2008
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Arborite Arctic Angora
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You know I like this pink one!
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I have this one in one of my bathrooms. It is beautiful. Matches a soft blue tile perfectly.
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These three Wilsonarts are my favorite. They are not online or on display – you have to special order them. I hope they are still available.
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I really like this one, too, for the linen texture, which I think is spot-on 50s. Might only be available in Canada – beg, cry, get hysterical
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Remember how, heading into the 60s bathrooms took a real turn toward the “Roman”? All these marbles and onyx’s definitely lean you right into that trend.
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The name says it all: Classic
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May possibly be available only in Canada. Check. Cry. Beg.
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Hmmm. Maybe for a bathroom. For sure good for a kitchen. This is a reproduction of a European design. Also available in a darker grey.
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Maybe. For a really “fun” bathroom. Wall tiles — should match, e.g. PINK of course!
Maryland Nancy is searching for laminate for her bathroom reno, and alerted me that the colorful Nevamar swirlie’s are discontinued. Alas.
So, I did another survey — and here is an update of the laminates landscape for bathroom vanity countertops, as far as I can determine. Scroll over each image with your mouse to see the name of the design, and the manufacturer. You can also click on each image, and the name/manufacturer are there just below the image.
Over the coming weeks, I will do similar updates for kitchen countertops, for laminated kitchen cabinets, and for laminated bathroom cabinets. I also will be comparing these to some vintage Textolite samples that I have, to help suggest the most authentic matches. A big topic, my eyeballs are popping out of my head just from this one!
I also want to point out that:
- I have found these online. Please test them in your house for color correctness!
- I can never vouch for whether they are still available. Argh. They do get discontinued with some frequency, it seems…
- You also always have the choice of solids. Although I personally have a big fondness for anything with texture.
- You can do your own search by surveying all these manufacturers: Wilsonart, Formica, Pionite, Nevamar, Arborite and Arpa USA.
by Pam Kueber on July 5, 2008
These are new from Formica. Both look like they could swing either “warm” or “cool” – that is, work across the spectrum from reds (and pinks) to blues.
I really like the Linen – a very typical look for the 50s — Hey, Formica, can we have it in green, blue, pink and yellow?!:

And, the Brescia marble is getting closer to the vintage crackle ices of the day:

More tools for our retro renovation toolbox!
by pam kueber on June 13, 2008


Lawrence Bill sent me a link last Sunday to a
New York Times story about staying neutral with your decor – especially the very basic, expensive stuff. In the very broadest sense, I tend to agree. A basic rule is, the more expensive the thing is – the more conservative your choice should be. Go crazy and trendy with accessories and stuff that’s relatively easy to switch out.
That said, I do not think that all-white bathroom tiles, as one example, are your only option. In fact, that scares me. For your retro renovation, you can be confident in picking a nice colored tile – a soft blue, green, yellow, beige, aqua or yes, even BW Tile pink. Trim your 4×4 ‘field tiles’ with white 2×6’s, add a white tile floor (AO Chloe, one of the new Daltile mosaics, or maybe you can find something excellent locally.) Voila — you have a pretty, timeless backdrop that any one of many accessory color combinations would bring right over the top easily! And you know that means wallpaper, too.
And how about the 1957 Armstrong kitchen above. Wood cabinets. Black countertop. White walls. Pretty neutral, huh. But then how about that punch of chartreuse, the shapely dinnerware, the daisies – even the cutting board? Makes it a work of art. Decorating is so much fun.
If you know what is good for you, you will stay away from: prefinished floors, concrete counters, glass tiles, vessel sinks, bamboo floors, oversized furniture, humongous range top hoods, oil-rubbed bronze faucets…hmmm, what other ubertrendy items can I add to ensure that I offend every reader somehow? Read on.
by Pam Kueber on May 6, 2008
by Pam Kueber on April 8, 2008


Seems like I’m starting the week off with the spotlight on RESOURCES! I was checking out Formica’s site recently – and saw these two new laminates. They both have a nice retro groove, underscored by their names, Atomic Orange and Atomic Turf. Back in the postwar era, there were a number of laminates that had a scratchy-burlap feel. These two remind me of those.
by pam kueber on March 19, 2008

I felt blog ego come upon me (horrors, ego!) when Ronn challenged my assessment that the countertop in this kitchen was original. Maybe yes, maybe no, but if his belief is that it’s 90s because of the integral backsplash and edge (rather than the pattern) – I did respond that I’ve spotted integral design for these in the 50s. Case in point, this 1955 Micarta countertop. So, you can go this way, folks, and be historically accurate. In fact – today this is the standard, and the cheapest way to go from Home Depot, for example. Butcher block laminate for example, is timeless, if you’d like to go this route.
Meanwhile, I also wanted to use this photo to point out the glass corner shelves. I replicated this look by using cabinet doors as the ’sides’ of the shelves – then attaching glass with hardware used for shower shelving:
1. I first took two wall cabinet doors off of a 24″ cabinet. So, they were each 12″ wide, a bit less than the side of the cabinet, so I set them back a smidgen, it looks fine. These front doors – then became the structure for the glass to attach too. This was important in particular because on one side, I had only a dead gaping hole corner piece frame to attach to, no cabinet — see the photo from the Old House Interiors story. That aqua piece connecting the shelves to the structural corner piece is a cabinet door. Hope you can follow this. If you have full wood cabinets on both sides of your window, you could just attach directly to them and save this doors-from-a wall-cabinet-turn-into-sides-to-set-the-corner-shelves-step. However, if you are doing this with steel cabinets, I think that the extra structural support for the glass shelves is a smart idea.

2. Attached shiny chrome brackets from the glass shop used for showers — to the doors, and to the back wall.
3. Install glass shelves. I think we used 1/4 inch but it may have been 3/8. There are lots of choices, we used an aqua glass which is perfect for our cabinets. A honed and polished edge. We cut our glass to size – had to, because one shelf (the one above) is actually 1″ narrower along the back than the other, to fill the space. Remember, we were retrofitting someone else’s kitchen into ours. Things were off by only 1″, a miracle, and even more so after you consider we put in the new big picture window and casements including fitting into the front brick configuration. Welcome to another episode of this old house. These shelves were actually a great solution to optically managing the difference. You’d never ever notice. The glass was wicked expensive. Like, $800 total. But it looks fabulous, makes a huge difference. Wood shelves would have been cheaper but then I would have wanted them edged in stainless steel. Money one way or another. The glass is light and bright – better – especially in my steel kitchen.
If you have wood cabinets, on the other hand, wood cubbies would be fine, I think, you can do this for $60 or less – with 12×12 wood corners available from Wal-Mart etc. Or, make them yourself – from extra cabinet doors would be great because then the thickness would be the same.
I love the corners. They make the kitchen feel more spacious and when you are at the sink, in particular, it’s nice not to have a big block of honkin’ wood cabinet on top of you. If you’ve got the space, I think it’s best to see if the full “quarter” 12 x12 or 13 x 13 will work – more space for cute things, more open. But if you’ve got a smaller kitchen, smaller shelves as in the top photo may be better. This is another decision to make based on scale.
by pam kueber on March 15, 2008

Anyone out there experienced in this issue? How great it would be to help Gail save her vintage “Twilight” (See my post of a few months ago – this stuff is AWESOME!):
We peeled back an ugly putty colored laminate backsplash in our kitchen and lo! The whole thing is covered in Azure Twilight GE Textolite! It’s stamped on the top with “years of wear. . . minutes of care.” The problem is that it’s covered with a yellowish glue. Does anyone know if Textolite can hold up to strong solvents, like Bix stripper or something? I would love to be able to save the Textolite, but it needs a strong cleaner. Goo Gone didn’t even budge it.
Thanks,
Gale
by pam kueber on December 4, 2007



ALAS: DISCONTINUED!
The website says that these are for “contract” jobs — that is, interior designers working on commercial projects. But hey, if you really like these retro laminate choices, go after Nevamar and get them!
Remember: The only way to do these…is to pair them with authentic steel countertop and backsplash edging available from the only company left making it in Astoria, Queens. Thank my husband David for finding them!
Here is the url to paste into your nav bar: http://www.panolam.com/Nevamar/retroPatterns.asp
by Pam Kueber on December 1, 2007

This ad from 1953 spotlights the Elkay Lustertone sink/countertop/drainboard combo. You can still get these today – and they are an awesome choice if you can make it work with your cabinetry and layout.
Stainless steel is a great surface to work on and to be sure, when you’re moving dishes into and out of the sink, it’s great to have a waterproof surfaces to the right and left.
<—- This Elkay Lustertone sinktop is almost identical (albeit a single-bowl) to the one above. It would look great butted up next to stainless-steel trimmed laminate. And don’t forget to put a slab of butcher block nearby.
<—- This second choice has a double bowl and can be set directly into laminate (no countertop edge) or onto another countertop material like granite (argh).
And this one —-> combines double bowl with edging although I’d need to find out if that super bright surface is for real – I don’t like it.
Overall: It seems like the best choice may be #1, if you can live with the single bowl.
I have numerous posts on countertops - they are all worth reading to put together your own plan, if I say so myself!
<—- BTW, notice in the 1953 design how the grey steel kitchen cabinet is married with the colonial pine. Very typical of the era.
by Pam Kueber on November 14, 2007

I’ve written before about mixing countertop surfaces in your 40s 50s or 60s kitchen. But I recently came across these great photos and thought they would be very helpful. The photos show:
- How to lower cabinetry to create a place to roll out your pie dough (of course). Put a slab of marble here — it’s best to keep dough cold.
- The addition of a sheet of stainless steel next to the stove on which to set hot pots. I did this — and it really is terrific from a functional standpoint. I use it every single day. The stainless steel is getting scratched up, but that just gives it patina.
- And, the use of butcher block to break up a long run of laminate. You can actually chop on this, or not. I don’t, it’s all for show – and it looks great.
Finally, considering creating ‘nooks’ of a variety of sorts throughout your kitchen. I put a separate 27″ base and wall cabinet to the right of my fridge. I keep my ‘coffee station’ here.
We also set two 18″ drawer cabinets together near the mudroom to house the telephone and all our family paperwork. We have a 36″ wall cabinets above as well.
In a nut: Create little vignettes throughout the kitchen, there a tons of ideas…I’ll continue to feature more from my vintage kitchen archives.
