Retro Renovation» vacation spots, historic homes, museums

Park architecture: The Everglades National Park and Mission 66 ‘Parkitecture’

Heidi Swank — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 16:55:56 +0000

Today, a special report by reader Heidi Swank
on ‘Parkitecture’, Mission 66, and the
Flamingo Visitors Center in the Everglades National Park

Heidi writes:

One of the benefits of our 2005 move from Chicago to Las Vegas has been the proximity of our new home to many state and national parks. Over the past six or so years my husband Scott and I have become avid national park goers. We have visited a number of national parks from the large and famous, like Yosemite, to lesser-known ones, like Guadalupe Mountains. About four years ago we took a three-week road trip visiting many national parks from California to Texas. As we traveled through the first several national parks on our trip, we began to notice that many of the park buildings not only seemed to come from the same theme but also had clearly been built in the 1950s and 1960s.

When we got to Big Bend National Park in Texas (#4 on our tour), we happened to meet a park ranger who knew all about these beautiful midcentury buildings. In fact, he was so ecstatic that we were interested in this era of “parkitecture” then he took us all through the back offices with Scott and I Oooing and Ahhing over pristine wood paneling, vintage linoleum, and original doorknobs. The ranger, whose name I’ve unfortunately forgotten, told us that the buildings in Big Bend and many national parks were part of the Mission 66 project.

He went on to tell us that Mission 66 began in 1956 and was intended to pick up where post-Depression New Deal park development had been cut short when the United States entered World War II. Inaugurated by President Eisenhower, the aim was to rehabilitate and expand the parks that had received little attention during the war and thus had fallen into disrepair. we got to Big Bend National Park in Texas (#4 on the tour), we happened to meet a park ranger who knew all about these beautiful midcentury buildings. In fact, he was so ecstatic that we were interested in this era of “parkitecture” then he took us all through the back offices with Scott and I Oooing and Ahhing over pristine wood paneling, vintage linoleum, and original doorknobs. The ranger, whose name I’ve unfortunately forgotten, told us that the buildings in Big Bend and many national parks were part of the Mission 66 project.

Post-War America was a time of prosperity and increased leisure for many. And Americans were flocking to their national parks. However, the existing roads, parking lots, and facilities in many of the parks were too dilapidated and inadequate for such large numbers of visitors. Mission 66 brought in new facilities including what became the hub of park activity: the visitor center. It was dubbed Mission 66 because it came to a close in 1966, the 50^th anniversary of the National Park Service. For us, this tour marked our start as Mission 66 activists (in addition to being general national park geeks). Once we returned home, we bought the Mission 66 book — Mission 66: Modernism and the National Park Dilemma* – the park ranger had shown us. We were sold on Mission 66! (*Pam disclosure: Links to book are affiliate links to Amazon. If you buy the book via my links, I get a little spiff.)

With this new knowledge, it seemed to my husband and I that we could bring together our enthusiasm for midcentury style and the national parks in Mission 66. We began to seek out Mission 66 buildings at every national park we visited. Sadly, we found that often park rangers were unhappy with these “old buildings” and hoped to update (gasp!) them before they turned fifty and became protected historic structures. Hearing these stories, we started talking to park rangers about the beauty and historical significance of their buildings, seeing ourselves as Mission 66 activists.

A few weeks ago, we were vacationing in Florida with plans to camp in Everglades National Park. We knew there were some Mission 66 buildings in the Everglades, but we also knew that hurricanes Katrina and Wilma in 2005 had taken their toll on the park and its buildings. So you can imagine our surprise when we arrived at Flamingo, the central area for activity in the Everglades, to find what was clearly a 1950s gas station, not in use but in excellent condition and newly painted pink! (Mamie would be sooooo proud!)

Just beyond this adorable gas station is the Flamingo visitor center, a remarkable Mission 66 structure. It’s made up of two midcentury modern buildings attached by a breezeway and framing the view out to Florida Bay. And like the gas station, it is painted a wonderful Mamie pink! It looked to us like the Flamingo visitor center was not just being tolerated but loved and cared for. We were so excited because this visitor center is among the oldest in the entire Mission 66 project.

Before we had left on vacation, we had, of course, consulted our Mission 66 book for any information on the Everglades buildings. So we knew that the Flamingo visitor center was one of eight that comprised the first phase of Mission 66. Thus, it was one of the first National Park Service visitor centers built in the new modernist style of architecture that became the hallmark of Mission 66. Prior to World War II, the National Park Service buildings were built in a rustic style, like the Ahwahnee Lodge in Yosemite (above).

And while beautiful, we had read that the Mission 66 project was given only limited funds for buildings, which meant that National Park Service architects needed to use materials and designs that were very economical. They looked to the modern architecture that was emerging in the 1950s, even bringing in consultants like Richard Neutra to assist.

From when I first saw the Flamingo visitor center, a passage from our Mission 66 book stuck in my head: Under Mission 66, visitor centers were no longer meant to be the park’s focus. In fact, they were intended to be viewing platforms, “to be seen from, not to be seen.” That fit the Flamingo visitor center to a T! Later that same day, while getting a tour of the visitor center from Ranger Tim Taylor we learned that this building, made from concrete, seems to be almost transparent because of its use of certain architectural features:

the beautiful second floor breezeway and two buildings flanking the view of the bay
a recessed ground-floor that originally held (and hid) administrative offices
a ramped entrance and horizontal windows that emphasize the building’s long and low lines
the elevating of the information area and restaurant on the second floor

Originally, although the restaurant in the western building always had air-conditioning, the breezeway and the entrance to the information area were enclosed only by screens. (August must’ve been uncomfortable to say the least!) In 1962, just five years after Flamingo opened, Hurricane Andrew made short work of these screens. Apart from this rather minor damage by Andrew, Flamingo weathered Florida’s hurricanes rather well over the following almost 40 years.

In 2005, Flamingo remained intact – though it did not keep its original pink exterior – and was about to be assessed for its historical significance when Hurricanes Katrina and Wilma struck. Fortunately, and despite an almost eight-foot storm surge after Wilma, most of the damage was only cosmetic. The roof had leaked horribly in the restaurant, leaving its interior beyond repair. Some of the exterior concrete had fallen away but none of the damage was structural. Regrettably, the nearby Flamingo Lodge, which was not raised on columns, did not fare so well and had to be demolished.

When I spoke with the Everglades’ Chief of Cultural Resources, Melissa Memory – great name for a historian! – the restoration of Flamingo was moving along, although at a slow pace due to a lack of Federal funds. The visitor center and gas station are back to their original Mamie pink, last year windows were replaced – making the sticky Everglades summers more bearable – and the information center, complete with midcentury handrail got a facelift.

There still remains much to do. The original and tiny information area, museum, and gift shop currently in the eastern building will take over the expansive western building that previously housed the restaurant. The eastern building will then be occupied by additional offices, a conference room, and a bit more public space. When I asked about plans for the two buildings’ interiors, Melissa told me about the Park Service’s plan to merge green, sustainable design with midcentury style.

This is the proposed new Flamingo Lodge building -- drawing provided to Retro Renovation courtesy the National Park Service

There are also plans to rebuild Flamingo Lodge and re-create a permanent restaurant, replacing the current temporary café that is housed in a screen-enclosed area under the visitor center. From what I’ve read these new additions will also draw upon midcentury design, even including some butterfly rooflines!

At the end of our wonderful Everglades vacation, Scott and I drove past the Flamingo visitor center and charming little gas station on our way to Miami. We felt relieved and happy in the knowledge that there are many rangers in the National Park Service, like Melissa Memory and Tim Taylor, who are also Mission 66 activists. Because of folk like Melissa and Tim, we can rest assured that these amazing Mission 66 buildings will remain for our and everyone’s future National Park adventures!

****

Pam writes: Thank you, Heidi, for this amazing report. I really learned a lot — and now, I have a big idea for where to go when I retire and buy and refurbish a vintage canned ham trailer. To all the Mission 66 locations, yes!

Thanks, also, to Melissa Memory of the National Park Service for providing the vintage photography shown here.

Readers, Heidi is a woman on the go. She recently announced that she is running for the Nevada State Assembly in Las Vegas. Did her mid mod butterfly-roofed logo. Go, Heidi, Go!

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1930s pink bathrooms — Leo Carrillo Ranch, Carlsbad, Calif.

pam kueber — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 08:30:06 +0000

Snaps to the king and queen of pink bathrooms — Nancy and Thommy. You may recall, Nancy’s pink poodle bathroom is world famous, not just here at Retro Renovation but also as headliner of the New York Times pink bathroom story. Now, our daring duo has served up a pair of pink potties from the Leo Carrillo Ranch, an historic site in one my original home towns, Carlsbad, California.
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I talked to Gerry Streff, the archivist from the Leo Carrillo Ranch, and she said that the bathrooms were built at the same time as the house. She checked the financial records — receipts for items purchased for the construction — and followed up with me:

I did check the date and the tile was purchased from Gladding McBean in October, 1938 (Hermosa Tile division.) Carrillo also has checks from the company doing the bathroom construction in 1938.

I consider myself the nation's pre-eminent expert on the history of pink bathrooms (umm, I know of no challengers), and while I have anointed Mamie Eisenhower founding-mother of the pink tsunami that washed over America in the 1950s, to be sure: We had pink bathrooms before that. I don't know exactly when the color started to seep into bathroom consciousness. I'm guessing as early as the 1920s... and that the key to this certainty will be found in tile history and to a lesser degree, in bathroom fixture history. In any case, I continue to hypothesize that pink's dominance in the loo did not ensue until World War II was over -- when home construction reignited after the long Depression malaise ... and after the massively popular Mamie spread the love.

Interesting fact about the pink bathrooms at the Leo Carrillo Ranch: They are in the bedroom wings of the house — which are separated from the kitchen-living room-dining area via outdoor walkways around an interior courtyard. Yes, that means: No bathrooms — not even a half-bath — within the main living areas. You must walk through the courtyard back to the bedrooms. Gerry explained that this design placement was part of mimicking true “rancho” style: Living was oriented toward being outdoors. Numerous elements from this outdoor-orientation were carried through to “ranch-style” houses of the 1950s and beyond, and is the leading hallmarks of the style.

Notice also, the bathrooms both appear to be a classic Mamie pink, trimmed in deep burgundy. I would call this a “deco” palette — we saw this kind of pastel-matched-with-a-dark-jewel-tone carried on through the 1940s. Remember this color palette: Toilet seats from 1938 (art: My collection.)

About the Leo Carrillo Ranch

Photo: Leo Carrillo Ranch / City of Carlsbad

The Leo Carrillo Ranch Historic Park sounds like a really special place to visit. Leo Carrillo came from a well-to-do San Diego (his grandparents once owned the island of Coronado). Carrillo was an actor and preservationist. He had roles in about 90 films, but probably is most remembered for his role as Pancho, the sidekick to the Cisco Kid. The show was the first television series shot entirely in color and was enormously popular. Carrillo started building his rancho as a retreat, during the height of his Hollywood career. Today it is owned by the city, and is a place for visitors and special events.

Links:

Leo Carillo Ranch Historic Site - visitor information
Friends of Carrillo Ranch — much more extensive historical information
Article about Joan and Alan Kindle, who in 1985 launched the campaign for the Ranch’s restoration.

Finally: Looks like you can see all episodes of The Cisco Kid on Hulu. I tried to watch one, but I found the pace, acting and Hulu ads torturous.

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Our Osgood’s Donut Dip Across the Border Adventure

pam kueber — Sun, 03 Jul 2011 08:30:43 +0000

DH and I recently had an adventure. We went to Osgood’s in West Springfield to get firmer cushions for our downstairs man cave sofa. I was extremely cranky regarding the whole trip. I had other things to do. But I had promised DH new cushions as part of his requested Father’s Day gift, so I got in the car anyway. Did I mention I was very cranky? I tortured him mercilessly with my wifely crankiness for a good solid 45 minutes … until our adventure began to decisively unfold.

We had a terrible time getting to Osgoods. The drive normally takes one hour. But to start, there was a backup on the Pike FOR NO REASON. It seems the turnpike crew managers left up signs that the lanes were narrowing to one. But the lanes NEVER EVER did narrow to one. Even so, everyone else on the road began slowing down starting like 30 miles away, anyway. It was extremely beyond annoying. We were both cursing. We are super compatible in this important respect.

Eventually, we were beyond the unnecessary bottleneck and off the pike and onto our exit, Exit 3. The next delay: We we missed a key turn in Westfield. I had chosen this sideways-to-Osgoods route from mapquest. Bad call. That set us back another 20 minutes, but by then we had cast our lots to the wind and were just going with the flow. The day was going to be shot, there was no denying. We were starting to laugh everything off.

Over the river and through the woods, we finally got to Osgoods. Everything went fine there – sort of. We could not get the cushions immediately, because we wanted the very firmest possible, and they had to order them. But, we were taking it all in stride. Guess we’d be making another trip!

By now we were starving and set out to forage for a place to eat. We thought we might find something old-timey in West Springfield, but we did not. We got dumped onto 91 North, and I started joking we would be eating at Chili’s soon. Sure enough, the first significant exit included signs for Chili’s. We took it. The same sign also indicated a non-chain Mexican place — we were all for that and started getting our enchilada mojo on. But then, we got onto a road where we literally could not turn around for like 8 miles. That’s when we first cruised past Donut Dip, over on the right. But we needed Food first.

We finally turned around. We kept looking for the Mexican place, but did not see it. Before we knew it we were in Fast Food and Casual Dining land. Even now we kept making wrong turns. By then I was Starving. I did not Care where we ate. Crap: We missed the turn for Chilis. I yelled at DH, but in a keystone cops we do have fun don’t we i remember why i married you kind of way.

Now we were back on the same road that made us drive 8 miles before we could turn around — the road that went past the Donut Dip. Needing some gratification after 25 minutes of driving in a circle, DH slammed on those brakes, and into the Donut Dip we went. We immediately realized that after surviving at least 4 rings of driving adventure hell, we had been delivered unto: Retro Donut Heaven!

It turns out that Donut Dip is quite the landmark. It makes its donuts on site daily and has third-generation owners. Here is what this political website had to say about it:

It has to be one of the most beautiful signs in America, not for its value as a piece of nostalgia, but as a thing in itself, a series of hot pink letters swirling around shadow, an alliteration made of neon that evokes less the past than another world. As it happens, the sign is easy to reach from the highway, and the donuts are the best in New England, maybe the best in the country.

We promptly slapped down $50 for: one super duper sized donut, a dozen mixed donuts, and three tee shirts — two blue, one pink.

The folks working there were also very nice and told us how to get to the Mexican place – which was RIGHT across the street but tucked back a ways.

Vintage photo from the Donut Dip website

We had to illegally jump the curb and scrape the bottom of the car to turn into the restaurant yet avoid having to drive 8 miles in the wrong direction before we could turn around. Yes, our luck had defiantly turned. It was still early at the restaurant, and we got seated right away. (There was a lineup by the time we finished dinner.) We inhaled super duper delicious enchiladas and the best guacamole ever. We would have mainlined margaritas, too, but we had to drive home.

It was the best day ever. And we had donuts for dessert.

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