Palm Springs Stephan finished his bathroom – it looks great! – and sends us this complete report, which includes a couple of new sources that I for one need to check out:

Dear Pam,

Your posting regarding sink legs reminded me that I needed to send to you some photos of my bathroom, now that the remodel of it is complete and the wonderful sink legs you sent to me are installed.

I am including a few “before” photos as well as a few “during” photos, in addition to the “after” photos. I will split them up into several emails.

The bathroom started out with a hideous mottled green tile and green fixtures in a shade that reminded me of a hospital from the past … in a bad way. It was sickening. And much as I love metal cabinetry, the existing “Vani-Lav” made the room feel smaller and more cramped than it already was. And the 1970s acryclic countertop with molded-in sink was awful. It all had to go.

So I gutted the entire thing, to the wall studs and sub-flooring. And I did this while already living in the condo! I do not recommend that, as one must then rely on the kindness of neighbors for showering and serious toilet matters and empty paint cans for less serious relief. And if one is as unlucky as I was and the contractor suffers a stroke during the project … actually keeling over IN the bathroom while installing concrete backer-board! … the whole process can get delayed far longer than expected. I was without a functioning bathroom for over a month.

I wanted desperately to do the bathroom in classic 1950s true pink, not “rose blush” or one of those beigey-pinks that were common in the 1970s. I searched for about three months without finding fixtures in a true pink, however. So I instead settled on a great matched American Standard set in blue posted on eBay by City-Girl-In-The-Country, a wonderful dealer in Antrim, New Hampshire (citygirlinthecountry.com). The set was date stamped: the toilet was manufactured on 11 June 1958, and the cast iron tub on 25 March 1958. Since my condo building was constructed in the summer of 1958 and I was keen to do an authentic restoration, the dates were perfect. The set cost $400, with an additional $800 to ship it in two wooden crates from New Hampshire to Palm Springs.

Removing the existing tub and installing the new one in such a small space was a MAJOR chore, one that I do not recommend to any but the most adventurous. But while removing the old one, we found newspapers from 1958 that had been stuffed into the wall for some unknown reason. That was entertaining!

The tile is a combination of two brands. The walls are Dal-Tile 4×4-inch high-gloss glazed porcelain in Arctic White with 6-inch black trim pieces. The floor is in a pattern that one of your contributors had in her all-original 1950s bathroom, and she had sent in photos just in time for me to duplicate the pattern in my own bath. The Ocean Blue and Black tiles are 1×1-inch Dal-Tile Keystone Color-Body porcelain, while the white ones are 4×4-inch Interceramic matte glazed ceramic tiles. The floor grout is Polyblend Sanded in a color that I mixed myself from two standard colors, Captain’s Blue and White, to match the fixtures.

The ceramic accessories, including the three soap dishes, toothbrush holder, and toilet roll holder, all came from Eclectic-Ware.com. They matched the Dal-Tile Arctic White perfectly and are authentic 1950s shapes.

You were kind enough to locate a set of sink legs and attached towel bars at a local Re-Store for under $20 and send them to me. I had them re-chromed at Palm Springs Plating for about $400. And while that may seem pricey, they did an outstanding job of removing the pitting and restoring them to “like-new” condition. I was and am very pleased with them, and they generate lots of comments, mostly gasps and dropped jaws and “OMG, I remember those from when I was a kid!”

The other hardware … tub/shower faucet and handles, shower head, and hand-held shower attachment … are Kohler’s Memoirs Classic line. Solid, heavy, and well made, but far more expensive than I would have liked. But the line has matching accessories … for a price! … so I was able to get a matching wall-mounted towel bar and glass shelf for above the toilet. Caution when buying Kohler hardware: the stems will not adapt to non-Kohler valves. I had to replace the tub/shower valve within the wall before I could install the Memoirs hardware, at a total cost of over $800 for just the valves and new copper piping. The actual Memoirs hardware, includuing matching towel bar and glass shelf, came to over $1600.

The mirrored cabinet above the sink is another eBay “find.” It was in mint condition and did not require any restoration, and it was inexpensive. The shelves along each side provided a great display space for some of my 1950s toiletries, all purchased on eBay, of course.

The light fixture above the mirror came out of the apartment I had just moved out of. The landlord there wanted to remodel and modernize the bath, removing all traces of 1950s design and replacing it with modern beige cultured stone (sacrilege!). So I “appropriated” the light fixture when I moved out, with his permission.

The other decorations and accessories, including the pink Detecto bath scale and chenille bath rug and toilet lid cover set are from eBay, of course. The Irmi children’s step-stool is from my own childhood. “Wash Hands And Face And Do It Well, When You Step On This Carousel.” The Palm Springs poster is a modern reproduction that is sold here in PS, giclee on tin, of a poster from the 1950s. It features tourists in and around a swimming pool with the legend “California’s Hot Spot! Palm Springs. Discover a new life … vibrant, gay, relaxed … Plan to visit California’s Desert Shangri-La!” Because I ended up with blue fixtures, I decided to design the bath around the poster. The photo above the toilet, another eBay treasure, is an original 1950s American Models Guild black-and-white of two physique models perched on the side of a swimming pool with aluminum lawn furniture visible in the background. I’m still looking for more poolside photos from the 1950s, but they are rare and unexpectedly expensive when they do appear on eBay.

The project took longer than I expected and cost far more than I had anticipated and budgeted, but the end result is much better than I could have imagined. I am really very happy with my little 1958 bathroom.

Stephan

So I also quizzed Stephan on the hunks in the photo above the toilette. Could those be naked-nudies? Stephan advises:

Yes, they are naked men, posed without the “boy bits” showing. The photo is an original from the late 1950s or very early 1960s, back when physique magazines served prurient interests under the guise of “art” or “physical culture.” The legal catch was that no genitalia could be shown. If you want to get some idea of the variety of such photos and magazines available in the 1950s, do an eBay search under the keywords “vintage beefcake photo” or “vintage physique.”

Oh how I love retro renovation, there is always more to learn around every corner… or in this case, behind every bathroom door. Thanks, PSS, you are the best!

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From the way the question is worded, it sounds as though the renovator wants to rechrome cabinet hardware specifically. While that can certainly be done, rechroming anything is usually an expensive process. For that reason, I would first encourage her to be very diligent in looking for replacement parts of similar design. Lowes, Home Depot, and many of the kitchen/bath hardware specialty stores are becoming attuned to the emerging Mid-Century Modern renovation market, so it may be easier and far less expensive to simply buy new parts that have a MCM look and feel.

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If, however, she really wants to rechrome the pieces she already has, begin by looking in the yellow pages under “Plating” and/or “Metal Plating.” She lives in a suburb of St Louis, and I find numerous metal-plating companies in the area when using Google. Take the parts around to several of them to get a number of estimates. Parts made with steel or brass as the substrate (the metal under the chrome) are easier and less expensive to strip and re-plate than is zinc. Cabinet hinges usually have a steel or brass substrate, but handles and door pulls are often zinc, which sometimes reacts negatively to the acids used to remove the old chrome. Existing pitting on a zinc substrate, for example, can actually become worse if the technician is not extremely careful. One way to find out which company is good and which is less so would be to contact a local antique or classic auto club for their recommendation. Interior auto trim is almost always zinc based, so auto nuts really know who is who when it comes to replating in your area.

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Replating a small number of pieces, as opposed to hundreds at a time, is a time-consuming and labor-intensive process when done correctly, so the cost is usually correspondingly high. The parts must be disassembled and immersed in a series of acid washes that removes all of the old chrome and its supporting layers. The items are then suspended in a chemical bath that has a weak electric current flowing through it, causing one or more layers of transitional metals to adhere, usually brass and/or nickel. This process can take anywhere from several hours to a couple of days. The same process is then repeated using a chromium bath. The parts must then be hand-polished individually on a polishing wheel and inspected for flaws.

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Expect the overall cost of replating to be in excess of ten times the cost of simply buying a new-made replacement part. A cabinet pull knob that might be replaced with one of similar design for $4 may cost as much as $40 to replate. Also expect a minimum charge of $50 to $75, and ask about additional fees for hazardous waste disposal, EPA and OSHA compliance, etc, all of which together can be as much as 15-20% of the base estimate.

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Good luck!

Stephan

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Following up on the FAQ regarding Heywood-Wakefield refinishing, Palm Springs Stephan shares his wealth of experience on the issue. Thank you, Stephan!

Stephan writes:

Heywood Wakefield (HW) furniture has become almost synonymous with Mid Century Modern design, largely because of its simple lines and lack of “fussiness.” The pieces are usually solid birch (no particle board and no veneers) and finished in shades of blond. The 1950s were all about blond woods! And the best part for Retro Reno perfectionists is that they ordinarily dated their pieces using an old fashioned rubber date stamp, so owners will know exactly when their pieces were made. They also normally have the stain color name stamped next to the date, usually Wheat (pale blond) or Champagne (blond with faint pink tones), and more rarely Platinum. HW was mass produced and relatively inexpensive, so it sold well and many pieces are still around. At any one time, there are usually a hundred or so listed on eBay, for example. For a concise history of the Heywood Wakefield Company, see http://www.springdalefurnishings.com/concierge/what_is_heywood-wakefield.html.

Refinishing Heywood Wakefield (HW) furniture is really not that difficult, despite the claims to the contrary made by the very few pros who do it. It just requires patience, some time, and lots of elbow grease. Still, I have not found any good full-time refinishers on the West Coast, despite an extensive search. Even here in the Palm Springs area, where HW is still very common and the market for it is super-hot, there are no good refinishers. Most furniture restorers seem to want to refinish HW using simple clear varnish, but that entirely destroys the collector value of the piece, as well as the authenticity. And some commit the cardinal sin of refinishing it with non-blond stains such as oak and cherry. One might as well chop the piece up for firewood!

I have found only one qualified refinisher west of the Mississippi River who uses the authentic HW process: Boomerang Modern in Denver, Colorado (http://www.boomerangmodern.com/). I used to stand in their showroom and drool when I lived in Denver! It’s thanks to Boomerang that I became an HW fanatic. In Southern California, the only place I know of is Woody’s in the city of Orange, but they lean toward retail selling rather than refinishing. When they do refinish pieces, they prefer to do so with clear varnish … and they charge a huge price. Most of the authentic-process refinishers seem to be on the east coast, such as Strictly Hey-Wake in Maryland (http://www.strictlyheywake.com/).

The original HW process used an opacifier that made the final finish somewhat milky in appearance. The result is a marked muting of the visible wood grain. The process was apparently a multi-step one, but at least one specialist retailer has reduced it to an almost foolproof simple process. EBay seller Needful_Useful_Things custom mixes and sells pre-opacified varnish by the quart through his eBay store (http://stores.ebay.com/Heywood-Wakefield-Wheat-Champagne_W0QQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 ). He also includes with every shipment a very detailed set of instructions for how to properly strip, sand, and revarnish HW furniture. His prices are high, at $45 per quart plus $12 shipping, but that is a heck of a lot cheaper than ruining the piece with clear or dark varnishes! And FAR cheaper than what it would cost to get a piece shipped to a distant professional HW refinisher, get it finished, and get it shipped back. I have purchased from Needful and used innumerable quarts of his Champagne varnish with consistently excellent results. I even custom designed and built a walk-in closet that is wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling birch and poplar wall paneling and shelving plus a built-in chest of drawers. The entire room was done with Needful’s Champagne varnish and I am thrilled with the result. If you follow his written instructions meticulously and do not try to rush the process, you cannot fail. Professional refinishers like Boomerang and Strictly HW use dust-free painting booths and compressed-air-powered paint sprayers that produce an absolutely perfect finish (and they are understandably critical of DIYers), but I am of the firm opinion that – for the money involved – most competent DIYers can do a near-perfect job for a mere fraction of the cost.

To retain the full collector value of HW furniture, follow the Antiques Roadshow dictum and do not alter the original finish. If you must refinish and you have oodles of money, ship your piece(s) to Boomerang Modern or Strictly Hey-Wake. If you are on a budget (as most of us are!), can use sandpaper, and have access to a large clean space in which to work, do it yourself! It is an extremely satisfying feeling to look at a nice piece of funrtiure and be able to say, “I did that!”

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This first is one of my favorites. It is an original Alexander house. (Wikipedia, which is notoriously unreliable, has an uncharacteristically accurate description of the Alexander Construction Company.) It has the “butterfly roof” so sought after by mid century preservationists locally. And a stunning view from the front yard!

Next, we have a tour of El Rancho Vista Estates. El Rancho was built in the late 1950s by Roy Fey, a former accountant from Chicago who came to PS and began a small real estate development empire. He worked with some of the most prominent architects of the Southern California Modernist movement, especially Donald Wexler. This little subdivision is carved into what is now the northeast corner of the Palm Springs International Airport property, giving it significant noise issues. But back in the day, it was out in the middle of nowhere. It remains largely intact, to the extent that some of the houses are falling into decay. Others have been purchased by preservation minded folks and been significantly rehabilitated. The better preserved homes carry enormous price tags, even with the current real estate market “reversal,” as the real estate flyer above indicates.

El Rancho Vista offers several different roof lines styles to choose from. The butterfly roof is still the most common and most sought after as quintessentially “mid-century modern.”

3551 East Avenida Fey Norte offers the clearest example of butterfly roof design, though the owner has chosen to downplay the effect with a washed out color scheme. The landscape design, called xeroscaping, consumes little valuable water and is appropriate for our desert environment.

This second butterfly roof, also on East Avenida Fey Norte, tops a west-facing facade containing large expanses of glass to maximize views of the mountains. It also has a wall constructed high-relief diamond-patterned concrete blocks enclosing a side garden. These diamond blocks were used extensively throughout the Palm Springs area during the 1950s and 1960s and are emblematic of SoCal MCM design.

Just across the street from the house with diamond bricks we find a different but equally common wall treatment: square blocks protruding out of the wall, creating a more aggressively textured effect. The homeowner here has maximized the effect through careful color choices and accents. The xeroscaping is still eco-friendly but more lush appearing. Even the bouganvillea at the left end of the house consumes minimal water while offering intense Mamie-pink color.

Flat roofs are also common in Palm Springs. When originally built, they were often generously covered with 1″-2″ pieces of white chip rock to reflect the heat, since many of these homes were not originally air-conditioned. With summer temps regularly into the 110s, every measure was taken to keep cool! Most are now covered with thick layers of sprayed-on expansion foam and
over-painted with reflective aluminum paint. The plexiglass and aluminum wall enclosing the front garden is a popular modern interpretation of mid-century design.
Note the conflicted landscaping … half water-consuming manicured grass and half white chip rock (perhaps scraped off the roof?).

This house is actually one of my favorites because its owner has remained mostly true to the house’s original aesthetic. The west-facing facade is largely windowless to prevent afternoon overheating, though the back wall is almost certainly largely glass. Note the string of white globe lights! Barely visible in the front window next to the door is a curtain of strings of beads in a pop-art flower design. Unfortunately, the owner fell short with the garage door … a modern aluminum design that could still be “mid-century-ized” with some color accents.

Peaked rooflines are also seen in El Rancho Vista and in Palm Springs, though the slope is very shallow. This example also has a variation on the diamond-patterned facade blocks, with the diamonds recessed rather than protruding. The ubiquitous “carport” of the 1950s is also nicely highlighted in this photo.

3573 el rancho vista – Another peaked roof in El Rancho Vista, with a trim color choice that accents the roofline. The concrete block mailbox support is a nice touch, too.

1673 Roberto Miguel As we leave El Rancho Vista Estates, we encounter an example of a MCM house that has been entirely re-interpreted in 21st century terms. Its owner retained most of the basic MCM design elements but camouflaged them with greenery and plexiglass walls. This house makes me sad.

But rejoice! Screamingly authentic mid-century design thrives just a half-mile away on North Monterey Road! The neighborhood, bordering the western edge of the airport property, is an enclave of high-end MCM design, most of which are well-preserved and carry price tags above $750,000. This is the area of town where many of the Hollywood elite of the 1950s built or bought homes.

This first house offers a startling interpretation of the diamond-patterned facade, accented by vivid color choices.

Back to the high-relief diamond patterned block wall, but this time the current owner has placed a pair of standing rocks in front of the wall to add interest. The ochre frame to the entryway adds some needed color. This is a million-dollar property.

334 N Monterey is one of my favorite houses in all of PS. The new driveway plays nicely off the original open lattice garden wall. The tall thin cedars give it a Hollywood effect, while the house numbers have an authentic MCM look to them. If only the owner would replace that Early American coach lamp with a brushed aluminum hourglass wall sconce!

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And voila – here is a photo of Stephan with Tony Curtis (who once owned Stephan’s condo building) at an event in Palm Springs last fall. So that mystery is solved, we now know what you look like, PSS!

What is there to say for this great post — but THANK YOU, Stephan!

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Nancy is a new reader from Carlisle, Mass, who wants to restore her gorgeous pink GE steel cabinets. Drool drool. I really wanted pink, but my husband (and the decorating gods) won out and we have aqua.

Here is Nancy’s question:

Hi Pam, I love your site. I’m just beginning to explore so I apologize if this is covered somewhere but I didn’t see it. I have a 1958 ranch with the original GE pink kitchen cabinets including the original double oven. The cabinets desperately need painting. The paint is completely worn away in some places. There are way too many for me to consider removing them and taking them somewhere to be painted.

It seems most people recommend either powder coating or an automative paint job for metal cabinets that need painting. I have found a company that uses an electrostatic charged enamel paint with a high gloss. They do a lot of steelcase file cabinets, desks, school lockers, etc. It seems as if that would work well for kitchen cabinets but I’m a little concerned that nobody in these forums mentions it. Any idea if this is a good way to go?

Here are a couple of pictures to take a look at. Just for fun, I included one of the original wallpaper we uncovered. Thought you might like to see it.

Thanks,

Nancy

Thanks, Nancy. Love the kitchen! Love the wallpaper! Love the brown (plastic? tile?) backsplash! Love the pinky stove top hood! I don’t know the answer to your question, though, so I’ve asked trusty Palm Springs Stephan, who knows most everything and especially how to paint metal as he is also a vintage car guy.

Before I get into his advice I do want to remind everyone to be cognizant of potential lead paint issues whenever they do renovations: Be sure to see the EPA’s complete website: http://www.epa.gov/lead/

He is the GREATEST and responded right away:

Sure, I’m happy to give this a whirl. But I am not an expert … just an “informed renovator.”

The process that Nancy describes sounds very similar to powder coating in that it involves a low-voltage electrical charge that helps paint to stick better to the metal. But from the way Nancy describes the “new” process, there do seem to be some very important differences.

As I have always understood the process of powder coating, the metal is first chemically (dipping) or mechanically (sanding) stripped absolutely bare. If Nancy’s cabinets are going to be painted in place, this process will either be minimized or skipped altogether. I would think that would have a direct effect on the final quality, probably a negative one. Proper preparation is always a huge part of any renovation process. I just don’t see how metal cabinetry in a household kitchen can be properly prepped if they are not first disassembled and removed. And the mess will be enormous!

In powder coating, the stripped metal to be painted is given a low-voltage electrical charge and a powdered pigment is dusted onto the surface. It is a dry process. The object is then heated so that the dry powdered pigment “melts” to form a smooth, glossy, and hard surface. Think of the old art-form of enameling a piece of jewelry. The process is very similar.

From what Nancy describes, the “new” process uses the same electrical charge to the metal, but the pigment is carried by liquid paint. And again because the job is being done in place without removing the cabinets, the paint will not be heat cured. This will almost certainly result in a final surface that is less smooth and less durable.

If the cabinets are removed and taken to a powder coater, it is much easier to paint both the outside and the inside of the cabinets, giving them a “new inside and out” appearance. I suspect Nancy’s “new” process will be limited to the outside of the cabinets … or if the insides are also painted, the inability to properly prep them while they are still installed may result in a poorer quality finish on the inside.

I wonder … can Nancy not arrange for a powder coating company to pick up the cabinets from her house? Or perhaps she can rent a U-Haul to take them to the powder coater?

I’ve never seen this “new” paint process used before, but I have to suspect that the likely limitations described above may well produce an end result that will not please her as much as would powder coating or even auto painting. Yes, it is a massive pain in the patootie to remove a bunch of cabinets, haul them around, and then re-install them. But as any experienced renovator can tell you, cutting corners also means cutting quality. I guess Nancy has to decide whether she is willing to risk the possibility of a less-than-perfect outcome in order to save some sweat and sore muscles. I vote for taking the cabinets out and doing it right.

Always happy to help,

Palm Springs Stephan

Thanks, Palm Springs Stephen. Hey, I have now given you your own Tag. Over the next couple of days I will go back and relabel all posts to which Palm Springs Stephan has contributed – or better said, written altogether – so fans can read up!

Meanwhile, Nancy – and Stephan – and readers – I do have one additional thought – but I am not sure of this either: Has anyone ever tried removing just the doors and having them repainted? It scares me to think the doors might not go on smoothly afterward – but perhaps another reader has tried this?

And BarbieT adds to the conversation:

Hi Pam, in reply to electrostatic painting, I read in This old house forum about some people that had their cabinets electrostaticly painted.They had them done right in their house, and it ran them about $1700.00 or $1800.00. They said the outcome was great. You just need to find some one in your area that does that kind of painting.

Thank you BT!

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Stephan from Palm Springs makes me oh-so-happy when he writes to compliment the blog — and moreover, to share great info on how to have vintage steel kitchen cabinets repainted.

Stephan writes: I just found your website today. I am THRILLED to have done so! The wealth of information is staggering. I am in the process of buying a small condominium here in Palm Springs in a building built in 1958. The entire building was once owned by Tony Curtis. The unit I am buying is absolutely original, right down to the Columbia metal cabintery and stainless steel appliances in the kitchen, green tub and tile in the bathroom with a steel “VaniLav” cabinet holding the sink [Note fromPam: A "VaniLav" was likely very similar to the "Lavanette" in the photo, above], and all of the original switchplates on the light switches. I have a suggestion to offer for those wanting to refinish metal kitchen and bath cabinetry. Rather than painting it with a latex or enamel wall paint, or spraying it with a standard enamel metal paint, I strongly recommend the following:

• Dismount the cabinets from the walls and take them to a local powder-coating business.
• Most commonly used for auto body work (especially chassis), powder coating produces a very strong, glossy, enamel-like finish far superior to standard spray-on paint.
• The company will do all of the stripping for you in the process, saving loads of time-consuming labor.
• The price is higher than simple spray painting, but the result is a finish that almost exactly reproduces the original 1940s-1950s finish.
• [Pam notes: Talk to the paint company that you will be working with to assess whether your cabinet doors may warp under high heat - perhaps do a test?]
  

I will be watching your site closely for more ideas, and telling my friends about it. Palm Springs is an entire city of mid-century modern architecture and homes, and there is a huge push here to preserve and restore authentic MCM design and decor. We even have a huge annual convention on the subject, with home tours, etc. – Stephan, MCM Enthusiast I followed up with Stephan, and he sent some of the great photos from the real estate listing. It’s, like, 20 degrees where I live. Forget the interior. Let’s get some rays! Alas. Stephan promises to keep us posted after he moves in and his retro renovation progresses in the months ahead. Thanks, Stephan!

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