If you love cone lights — and want to use them on the exterior of your house where precipitation is a concern, good news: Practical Props has adapted two of their popular double-cone “bowtie” lights — adding rain shields so that they are UL-damp-rated for exterior use. And the price is very reasonable, I think!
Sleek exterior double cone light with pinholes:
Practical Props was proactive (way to go!) and sent me an email about these new products. They wrote:
Our popular dual cone sconces now come with glass rainshield for exterior use, and a new version without pinholes for use in wet locations has been added as well.
The design shown above is:
EWS16
Satin Aluminum
Interior/Exterior Wall Sconce
UL Damp rated w/rain shield
Uses 2x60watt bulbs max
14″ high x 8.5″ extension
$149
A second double cone light, sans pinholes, rated for damp exterior use:
The design shown above is:
EWS15
Satin Aluminum
Interior/Exterior Wall Sconce
UL Wet rated w/rain shield
Uses 2x60watt bulbs max
13″ high x 7.5″ extension
$149
Practical Props Sputnik lights:
Don’t forget, we also are googly-eyed over Practical Props’ growing selection of Sputnik lights — surely the largest variety in the galaxy! (Stay tuned — giveaway coming on Friday).
Double cone bowtie lights:
Note: We have written about six companies providing a wide array of double-cone “bowtie” lights — some of these may also be rated for exterior use — please check appropriateness for varying conditions, though. I am not an expert; seems like I have just learned that some exterior lights are “UL-damp” rated because they have rain shields or a design that encloses the bulb — while others may still be rated for exterior use although not for protection from dampness and as a result, must must go under some sort of covering. On this issue: Get with your own properly licensed professional / do your own homework to make the right choice for your situation.
Disclosure: Practical Props is on my waiting list to advertise on the blog;
this story was not part of any sort of “deal”.
You can read more about how we make money here.
50s and 60s lighting from today’s Remcraft 
Renovate SAFE: Precautionary Pam environmental & safety reminder 
How high to hang a chandelier over a dining room table 
Living room lighting — No to sconces… now to research recessed lighting 
Get our retrolicious free newsletter.
Nice styling. I like the rounded edge of the back plate.
OK, I’m usually ‘seeing’ lots of options when you showcase items but I seem to be kind of dull today. Where, besides the front door, would something like this be used? No doubt I’ll be muttering “Well, duh!” when the other readers post their lists.
They would look nice flanking a garage door. Maybe on a brick or cement block patio wall. Didn’t we see fixtures like these mounted under the eaves of a time capsule house once?
Ours are simple cylinders rather than bow ties. But in addition to the front door, we have one next to the side door & a pair flanking the garage door. They could also be used on a porch post.
I saw these a lot in commercial settings. Down hallways and on storefronts.
Modern houses: hallway, front/back porch and on accent/back walls around pools.
My concern is that it is aluminum. I live near the ocean air and it would rust quickly. My hope is that someone will make them in stainless steel that withstands rust longer.
Actually, aluminum physically can’t rust—it’s a completely different element with different oxidation properties than the elements that make up iron and steel, which is presumably why Practical Props makes them in that metal. Aluminum would outlast stainless steel in a salty and humid coastal environment.
To clarify, aluminum DOES corrode, but it doesn’t rust. Upon exposure to air, the aluminum’s surface develops a thin layer of aluminum oxide – basically a thin but tough protective layer to preserve the rest of the metal. After the thin layer forms, no further corrosion takes place unless the surface is disturbed (such as being scratched), and then all that happens is the disturbed area develops a new layer of corrosion, then the process stops. It’s drastically different from rusting (iron oxide), which doesn’t stop corroding the metal until it’s completely disintegrated.
I hope this helps and wasn’t too wordy. ^_^
Thanks, Emma, I was wondering about this!