Several readers have asked me how to install the stainless steel countertop edging from New York Metals. In this post, I’ll take you step-by-step through the process that we used to install the metal edging in my kitchen.
- See all of our Kitchen/Countertops research here — for example, we have research on aluminum (rather than stainless steel) edging, too
- See my overview story on where to buy metal countertop edging — stainless steel, aluminum, even faux
I had my countertops laminated by an outfit recommended by by contractor. They made all the countertops and backsplashes separately, ahead of time, and then, when they came to install them in my kitchen, they put everything together.
To review…The edging is comprised of three different pieces.
This is the little cove molding piece you use to mask where the countertop attaches to the backsplash. The part that “shows” is the 5/16″ part. You shove the 15/16″ part back down behind the main countertop:
This next piece, the 1-5/8″ snap-on molding, goes along the edge of the main countertop.
The question I have been receiving is, how to you handle the corners.
Answers: On the OUTSIDE corners, you snip the the metal lip that sit on top of the countertop and along the underside and miter it; the fat 1.5″ part of the metal bends easily to make the turn:
On INSIDE corners, you cut the whole piece, also making miters on the lip that sit on the counter and underside.
Now, somewhere in my stash I saw 50s DIY instructions on how to then weld… spotweld?… sauter? the mitered edges for a clean finish. Who knows which word? Lord knows which of 400 magazines this little article in. But I’ll keep an eye out. In any case, we did NOT weld anything and honestly, it’s fine. It kind of looks worse in the photo above than it is in real life. The miters are just real tight. Hey, if anyone is out on retro recon, with a camera and sees welded corners – grab the shot and send it in.
Finally – the 1″ backsplash…corners, miters…are handled the same way. In spots where the backsplash edges are visible vertically as in the photo below – back by the wallpaper – we made the bend then just secured them with a bead of glue. No screws were used.
Contractor Kevin, along with the countertop guys, were quite trepidatious about the whole thing coming in. This was the first time any of them had done this, their dads had done it 50 years ago! It really was a breeze, though. And as with the rest of my darling beloved kitchen – all the naysayers who thought I was nutso – were totally won over in the end and LOVED IT!
Above – Reader Amy asked you to “end” the countertop against a well. Here’s Option #1 – you run the backsplash all the way around.
Above – Option #1 e.g., where the countertop ends against a fridge, we wrapped the countertop in 1-5/8″ molding there – no backsplash.
Hope this all makes sense.
Note that metal countertop banding is available from a number of companies in a variety of metals. Some are u-shaped, like the kind I used, while others are t-shaped and require routing. Others also may have cute banding. And, there’s shiny and matte finish to decide on. Lots of choices!
Jenny Hintze says
I’m considering doing this in my 1954 kitchen. We are ready to begin a remodel, but I really want to try to keep it true to the house. What I’m wondering is if this type of laminate and the stainless edging is cheaper than going with a more traditional (granite) countertop. Can anyone give me some ideas on prices for a good sized kitchen??
pam kueber says
Jenny, give your local Home Depot or Lowe’s a call and ask for pricing of the two surfaces, installed. Note: I am told there is good quality granite and then, not so good.
Add a couple of hundred bucks to the laminate quote – cuz you’ll need to buy the metal edging and have it installed. Note: If you get a specialty laminate — vs. one available from the big box stores — that will add to the cost too.
To see all of our laminate resources identified as possible good options for a retro kitchen head to our Kitchens/Countertops category. Also take a look at Kitchens/Readers and their Kitchens – lots of examples there.
Finally, readers here may cringe — I did — at your calling granite “traditional.” Laminate countertops ruled kitchens from about 1950 well into the 1980s, even the early 90s. Granite is a more recent phenomenon — I would categorize it as “contemporary” (as in popular today) rather than “traditional.” That said, in mainstream media, we’re told granite is “out” and that other surfaces like large slabs of marble and solid surface like quartz are now the “in” styles. Hence: My personal preference — disregard what’s trendy today when making these decisions. Your kitchen will be “dated” to the date you updated it, if you go with what’s 2014. If you date it to the date of your house — or, at least in a harmonious way — it will also be dated, but at least it will be dated to the date of its construction. Here’s a story — with a 191-reader-comment discussion — about “timeless” elements.
Jenny Hintze says
Thank you so much for your advice! And I’m sorry for using the wrong terminology and making you cringe. I’m no designer. 🙂 In my mind, granite is really uptight and conservative. Anyway… I would love to redo our kitchen and stay true to the 1950 feel, but my husband is concerned about resale and durability. Do you have any advice that can make us both happy? Or can you point me to any other blogs or websites that you feel has good information? I really appreciate your help! I love my 1954 home and I want to do it justice.
pam kueber says
Dig into the categories, Jenny… lots of discussion these topic there.
Greta says
I wanted to tell you how great your finished counter looks. Terrific.
Erin says
Hello all,
I have a retro kitchen countertop that was original to my house, that includes the metal edging already. The counter top color is grey, bland swirls, and does nothing for the kitchen. The cabinets are white so it all just looks like a bland mish-mosh.
We are getting the house ready to sell and would like to refinish the counter-tops. Is it possible to remove the metal edging, refinish the countertop, and replace the metal edging?
Has anyone ever done this?
Or, is it generally a bad idea to refinish the laminate countertops?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! If pictures of my countertops would help, I can post them.
Thanks in advance!
pam kueber says
I would leave the countertops alone. You might get a buyer(s) who want original features. And if someone wants a modern kitchen, your DIY won’t likely sway them. Read this: https://retrorenovation.com/2012/07/30/how-to-sell-a-midcentury-house-full-of-original-features-we-hear-from-three-real-estate-agents-who-specialize-in-midcentury-modern/
Sil says
Hi Everyone,
i am actually in the process of redoing my kitchen as well. I do however have a different question. My counter tops currently have the stainless trim and i would like to remove it to be able to refinish the formica, and then would like to put my stainless back on. Has anyone done this?
Cyndy says
Do you or anyone you know have any idea of where I can get replacement grooved plastic (or vinyl) banding to insert into my metal edging on my formica countertops in my 1960’s kitchen? The old banding was red, but has gone brittle so I easily removed it, but have not been able to find a source to buy new from. I’m open to other colors or suggestions. Thanks!!!
Jim A says
Hi Pam,
I’m excited to report a possible BIG find for aluminum tee moulding!
http://www.orangealuminum.com/tee-molding.html
It comes in various widths, but only comes in 6 foot lengths.
But a little seam is ok with me, as these process are fantastic!
I just ordered 3 lengths so I will report back when they are delivered!
best,
Jim
pam kueber says
Thanks, Jim. We have a source identified for aluminum cabinet edgings, I think they have more varieties and sizes: https://retrorenovation.com/2011/05/01/aluminum-countertop-trim-from-eagle-mouldings-and-retrotrims-com/
Teresa says
Does anyone know where to find instructions for installing formica counters and back splash?
Thanks!
natty says
Wow- we’re in the middle of restoring our 1950s Coppes Napanee kitchen and just purchased all the stainless steel edging for the counters from NY Metal. (Luckily, I live in NJ and could pick it up in person).
We are replicating the counter tops exactly as they were installed. A comment/question: my contractor thinks that the joints on the stainless trim are filled with a grey epoxy- although it looks like a sauter/welded joint. Does anyone have any thoughts about what this stuff is, if we are, in fact, correct?
Thanks!
Natty
pam kueber says
We did not do anything to fill the joints. See my video: https://retrorenovation.com/2010/09/07/retro-renovation-tv-laminate-countertops-for-your-mid-century-kitchen/
Historically, I “think” they were sautered.
Want more tips: Call NY METALS and ask them for advice.
Jenny says
Sautered = soldered?
pam kueber says
Yes.
Jay says
I have the exact Formica pattern and SS edging in my kitchen that are in the pics.
I bought a retro table the other day and the Formica is identical to my Mother’s kitchen countertops.
Either these are popular patterns or they only had 1/2 dozen or so choices back in the day.
Jay says
You can buy the SS edging from this place for about $40 per 12′ length.
http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_master_catalog/page/391
I don’t know what they charge for shipping.
pam kueber says
I have an updated post on all the places to find metal edging, including Outwater, here: https://retrorenovation.com/category/kitchen/countertops/