Bathrooms are the smallest rooms in the house, but they pack a lot of utility into every square inch, so they can be complicated — and expensive to remodel. I thought it would be fun haha to compile a list of every element of a bathroom remodel for which you need to plan, budget and spend. I am going to take a first run at the list based on my experience with several bathroom renovations — but welcome your additions, as I may not have been hit with every possible expense. Here goes:
Permits and testing
- Building permit
- Electrical permit
- Plumbing permit
- Lead testing, as required
- Asbestos testing, as required
- NOTE: See our BE SAFE / RENOVATE SAFE page for more information on potential hazards in vintage homes before you dive in! This includes my May 2016 story, Understanding potential lead hazards in old porcelain enamel bathtubs and sinks and ceramic tile of any age
Demolition
- Contractor bags
- Dumpster, if required
- Disposal fees
- Surcharges for lead abatement, if required
- Asbestos abatement, if required
- Wood rot
- Mold
- Old plumbing
- Bad wiring
- Bug infestations (we just found a nest of carpenter ants while the walls were open on my office renovation — $350 exterminator, cha ching)
- Anything that’s not to code that you weren’t anticipating.
- What else?
- Wood for framing
- Insulation
- Vapor barriers
- Energy efficiency sealants
- Window(s), if required
- Door, if required
- Drywall
- Greenboard/concreteboard for under tile
- I always use professionals who give me a bid, who bring the stuff, and give me a bill when it’s all done. Their costs usually include cost of permit and inspections. If you move your plumbing, costs are higher than if you keep your plumbing where it is. Also, if you have an old house, it’s probably wise to bring in a licensed plumbing contractor in any case — now that you have the walls open, have them take a look at everything and if it’s necessary to repair and replace so that the house is good for another… 50 years … well, suck it up and do it.
- I always use professionals who give me a bid, who bring the stuff, and give me a bill when it’s all done. Their costs usually include cost of permit and inspections. If you move your electric, costs are higher than if you keep your electric where it is. Also, in old houses, you may need to do some rewiring or upgrading to the wiring anyway — see plumbing section above regarding doing a complete inspection and any necessary maintenance/repairs now that you have the walls open…. Actual electric thingies to consider include:
- Lighting around sink
- Lighting center of ceiling
- Lighting above tub/shower
- Exhaust fan (In a tiny bathroom I like combo lighting/exhaust fan above tub/shower). See Kate’s research and the fans she bought for her two bathrooms.
- Timer for exhaust fan on its own switch.
- Electrical outlets and switches.
- Sink
- Sink legs or vanity and vanity top
- Different hardware for vanity, if required
- Repaint vanity, if required
- Faucet and associated parts
- Toilet
- Toilet innards
- Toilet seat
- Grab bar by toilet – or at least consider the framing so you can add one later.
- Tub or shower pan
- Tub/shower faucet set
- Grab bar(s) in tub/shower area – or at least consider adding the framing (thanks Stubenville for this suggestion)
- Where else to put grab bars or the framing for them for the future: Consult with pros. Sorry. We’re all getting older every day — and even if it’s not an age thing, grab bars are great if you hurt your back, etc.
- Towel bar in tub/shower, if required
- Shower curtain rod, or shower door
- I always like to add a diverter to a handheld shower head
- Handheld shower head
- Towel bar for bath towels
- Towel bar, ring or hook for wash towels
- Towel bar or hook inside tub/shower for washcloth
- Robe hook for back of bathroom door and maybe also by tub/shower
- Soap dish in tub/shower
- Toilet paper holder
- Medicine cabinet
Tile and finishing
- Floor tile or other flooring material
- Grout for floor tile, or adhesive for a resilient floor.
- Wall tile
- Grout for wall tile
- Caulk to use at tile edges, on tubs, on sinks, etc.
- Shower pan tile (if less slippery surface is desired)
- Grout for shower pan tile
- Mortar to apply tile
- Sealer for floor tile. Some ambition people also seal their wall tile
- Liner strip, if desired
- Bullnose in same or contrasting color
- Tile-in soap dish and/or toothbrush holder for above sink, if required
- Different floor tile for shower pan, if required
- Recessed shelving forms, such as Tile Redi (there are other brands, too) and any unique tile pieces required to edge them
- Marble threshold for shower pan, if required
- Marble or other type threshold for bathroom door, as required
- Wood trim for windows and doors
- Wood trim for floor if wall is not going to be tiled
- Primer for drywall
- Primer for wood trim (if trim is to be painted)
- Conditioner, stain, finish for wood trim (if trim is to be stained)
- New cover for heat and air conditioning vent?
- Paint for walls and trim
- Wallpaper
- Wall size, if wallpaper is used
- Window treatments
- Shower curtain or doors
- Shower curtain rings
- Coordinating towels and rugs
- Soap dish for vanity
- Shelving and artwork for walls, as required
- Wastebasket
- Plunger – After all this time, money and grief, you’ll want a clean start.
Hey, if thi$ checkli$t doe$n’t make you want to Love the Bathroom You’re In, I don’t know what will.
Want to noodle bathrooms more? Check out my three videos about my blue bathroom renovation:
- Video: My blue bathroom, basic design concept.
- Video: My blue bathroom, some design tips that turned out really well
- Video: My blue bathroom, things I’d do differently *the video that went viral*
What potential or for-sure expenses did I miss, dear readers?
Or, what bathroom remodeling expenses caught you by surprise? Do you have a nightmare that you need to process and forewarn? How about ideas that saved you lots of money? Bathrooms as Money Pits: That’s today’s topic.
Adrienne Bennett says
When we remodeled our bathroom, we took a window out. I think any time one is changing out, and definitely when removing or adding a window, you need to consider what work will need to be done on the exterior of the home, such as patching and painiting your siding.
pam kueber says
Good addition! Thank you!
Deborah says
My son purchased a 1942 home the tiled bathroom floor had a major crack the length of the room. The tile was laid on several inches of mortar which has been completely removed. The home sits on a crawl space. What is the proper way to reinstall the tile floor. His contractor wants to install a wood floor to lay the tile on instead of laying mortar then installing the tile. Is this correct?? Thank you
pam kueber says
Deborah, I am not an expert on this.
Diane Miller says
Thank you, Pam Kueber, for creating this list. You and Kate are so cool! Retro Renovation is by far my favorite website! Your emails/newsletters are the only ones I am happy to receive. Without planning on it, I purchased a 1950s time capsule ranch a year ago. It was divine guidance, as I never bought a house before and didn’t know what a gem I had until finding your website. I consider myself blessed after reading stories here of people looking for time capsule homes. A year later, I’m still finding out how cool my house really is. Why was everything made so much better back then? I am going to save my pink bathroom someday (have to save the $$ first). Our vintage turquoise fridge (GE) and dishwasher (KitchenAid Superba by Hobart with kitschy “party” wash mode) need to be repaired (and they will be repaired…someday). I feel overwhelmed, but your website keeps me inspired. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.
pam kueber says
Awwww, thanks, Diane! You just made my day!
Diane Miller says
You are welcome, Pam! You just made mine :).
Ann says
If a window exists — may need a new window frame or at least lower ledge.
Nancy says
How about a heated towel bar?
pam kueber says
Good one
Daniel Bryant says
does no one do plaster walls anymore?
Teri Larsen, ASID says
I’m a designer, so I may be biased, but I would add the cost of hiring a designer to your list. A designer can actually help you save money overall, as they have sources for products and leads for reputable contractors that you may not have. And, if you don’t have the 40 hours per week it may take to coordinate your project, a designer can help you with your timeline and keeping things on time and on budget. If a new space plan is in your remodeling plans, a designer can help you with the new layout, as well. We’re worth it! 🙂
mike says
I second that. I’m no designer, but the value a good local designer adds, just by recommending workers and materials, is well worth the price!
Estelle Page says
Wow, you’ve really thought of everything, down to the garbage bags!!! Will be printing this one off and pinning it to my wall, about to start renovating my bathroom at home next month (more antique than retro though – trying to stick to the theme of our Victorian era flat!)
Peggy says
Refinishing 1955 very large and deep cast iron tub that would cost a lot of money to remove and would entail removing the ceramic tile floor set in wire mesh and concrete. A lot cheaper to refinish the tub, plus it’s a much better tub that those made today.
Michele says
Hey,
We just finished (about a month ago) our “new” 1950;s style bathroom…yup, the 2-3 month job took us 9 months since we had to take over the reno’s, as the contractor didn’t know how to do the tiles (walls, shower or floors)…we did pay more (a lot more) for coloured tiles as they had to order them in and “nobody” does coloured 4×4 tiles anymore! It was worth it though, I love my bathroom!
I hope you do a list of what is needed for kitchens as that is our next project…our living room is almost done (why, “hello gorgeous orange and cream vintage wallpaper!”)…
pam kueber says
yum! send me pics send me pics!